Montage dessin Devies Gervasutti devant la face NW de l'Ailefroide
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Ailefroide North Face — Devies-Gervasutti Route

Ailefroide’s north face is a wall that soon gives you a stiff neck… and a few ideas if you enjoy big mountain adventures! First climbed in 1936 by Lucien Devies and Giusto Gervasutti, the Devies-Gervasutti route offers around 1,100 metres of climbing in the vast surroundings of the Écrins. Here, the grades only tell part of the story. Length, altitude and mountain conditions make this a very different undertaking from a multi-pitch route in the valley. And reaching the top certainly doesn’t mean the day is over!

Day 1 — La Bérarde and Temple-Écrins hut

  • Start from La Bérarde and walk up to the Temple-Écrins hut. Settle in, prepare our equipment and discuss the climb before a short night’s sleep.

Day 2 — Devies-Gervasutti and Sélé hut

  • Set off before dawn to approach Ailefroide’s north face and climb the Devies-Gervasutti route. After the ascent, we reach the summit of Ailefroide Occidentale at 3,954 metres, then descend to the Sélé hut. A long mountain day, followed by a well-earned night’s rest!

Day 3 — Return to La Bérarde

  • Return to La Bérarde via a high-mountain route: there’s still a proper mountain stage ahead, even with the great face now behind us!

Alternative — From the Pré de Madame Carle to Ailefroide

  • Day 1: start from the Pré de Madame Carle and cross to the Temple-Écrins hut.
  • Day 2: climb the Devies-Gervasutti route and stay overnight at the Sélé hut.
  • Day 3: descend from the Sélé hut to Ailefroide.

Technical Details

Duration
3 days
Massif
Ecrins
Participants
1
Season
Mid-june to September
Rates
Guiding fee2800€
Trip expenses90€
Book this tripDownload trip sheet (PDF)

Booking & advice by phone available

Photo Gallery

Portrait ancien d’un alpiniste assis sur un rocher, corde autour du buste.
Les Dalles Grises, passage clé de la Devies-Gervasutti à l’Ailefroide occidentale.
Passages rocheux entre les toits dans la partie supérieure des Dalles Grises.
La vire en arc de cercle après les Dalles Grises de la Devies-Gervasutti.
Ju dans une cheminée rocheuse au-dessus de la vire en arc de cercle.
La Tour Rouge sur l’itinéraire de la Devies-Gervasutti à l’Ailefroide occidentale.
Progression sur le rocher rouge dans la partie supérieure de la Tour Rouge.
Escalade dans une cheminée de sortie de la Devies-Gervasutti.
Dernière longueur rocheuse avant la sortie sur l’arête de l’Ailefroide occidentale.
Traversée de l’arête entre la sortie de la Devies-Gervasutti et le sommet de l’Ailefroide occidentale.
Ju et Nicolas au sommet de l’Ailefroide occidentale après l’ascension de la Devies-Gervasutti.

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