Climbing the Pschitt gully on Ailefroide Orientale with Olivier: perfect ice, summit joy and a very long descent with a guide battling food poisoning.
After a short spell of almost wintry weather, high pressure settles back over the Alps. Olivier contacts me, hoping to enjoy the supposedly good conditions on the faces.
We haven’t met yet, and our proposed objective is already quite a serious way to get acquainted! I hesitate a little. But Olivier has gained experience with other guides, and something tells me the Pschitt gully on Ailefroide Orientale should be in good shape. At worst, we’ll have a fine walk!
Meeting by headtorch
At 2.30 a.m., I discover my climbing partner’s face in the beam of a headtorch. We quickly get along… Although at that hour, nothing is particularly quick!
We leave the Pré de Madame Carle around 3 a.m. for a little night-time stroll beneath the stars to the Pschitt bergschrund.
Another team, Julien and Robin, heads into the Fourastier. We’ll reach the summit at exactly the same time! A friendly encounter: the atmosphere in the mountains is relaxed.
Good ice and perfect névé
Around 8.30 a.m., we cross the bergschrund. The prediction proves right: it’s all good!
Olivier moves steadily through terrain that is new to him. Conditions are perfect. The first key section offers a little ice at 85°, then a section around 80° before a tight squeeze. Beautiful climbing! Good ice for screws and firm névé for the tools. What else?
A few snow slopes lead to the second part. Olivier savours every moment of this journey through North-Face Land.
The next section begins with ice at 75°, before the crux: around five vertical metres on slightly thinner ice, followed by a section at 75–80°. Again, the ice allows good protection. Nice and steady! We couldn’t ask for more.
A guide heading for freeze-dried status
For me, the outing begins turning into an ordeal. Food poisoning gives me a 24-hour introduction to severe dehydration.
Not ideal for a long mountain effort. The return will be very, very long! Three days later, my trousers are still falling down. If anyone wants ideas for losing four kilograms in a few hours, I have some… definitely not to be tried!
Above the crux, more lovely slopes await, with a few stretches of deep, loose snow, especially over the final 100 metres. Semolina on slabs.
Then we emerge into the sunshine! Olivier is beaming, delighted by the climb. My internal battles don’t stop me enjoying the moment too. Julien and Robin are up there with us.
A descent that goes on and on
We complete the abseils without too much trouble, thanks to Julien and Robin freeing the rope for us. They then have their own minor rope jam, with nobody behind to help! Thanks, lads!
We traverse towards the normal route, climb back to the foot of the Banane and begin descending.
I need frequent breaks. I haven’t been able to eat or drink for hours, and I’m still losing fluids. Brief naps restore a little energy so I can belay Olivier on the Ailefroide ledges.
Eventually, we clear the final difficulties. All that remains is to let ourselves roll down the rocky trails of the Sélé valley for another three hours.
We reach Ailefroide around 11 p.m., with me in a state of complete freeze-drying!
Oliv’, well done again on a fine ascent. May it give you momentum for all your future projects!
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