November 1, 2015

Pellisier Gully

Planpraz - traversée Clocher - Clochetons Arête des Cinéastes

With Antoine, we swap the Chéré for the Pélissier gully in Chamonix, with steep ice, a punchy mixed pitch and a return along the Arête des Cosmiques.

A climber in an orange jacket and blue trousers climbs the Pélissier gully between dark rock walls.

Second day in Cham'. This time we've got our own truck! The wind has died down up high, and it's incredibly mild. The down jacket and fleece won't be coming out of the bag.

Our original plan to climb the Chéré couloir has been thrown off a bit. A group of four rope teams is busy tackling the route. A little too crowded for my taste. So we’ll have to improvise!!

I suggest to Antoine that we go for a climb up the Pélissier couloir—a tougher route with some seriously challenging mixed climbing! Antoine’s up for it. Antoine is always up for it, even though I can see a hint of apprehension in his eyes as we start up the gully. I have to say, this is the first time he’s going to climb on somewhat steep ice, and his first multi-pitch route was just yesterday!!

I have confidence in my partner—adversity only spurs him on!!

Perfect weather, a couloir that looks in good condition—it really gives you wings!

We start with two long pitches of snow and ice, including short sections at an 80° angle. Antoine takes the lead and picks it up quickly.

We then climb out via a short but challenging mixed pitch (M5)—a chance to learn how to hook and lock the ice axes into the cracks and scrape the crampons as best we can. Antoine calls me a total nutcase, but he nails the section without too much fuss!

A short stretch of rock to reach a snow slope.

Un grimpeur en orange et bleu évolue sur une dalle raide ponctuée de neige.

The rest of the route is less difficult, but it’s still a beautiful mixed section on a slab blocking a dihedral.

Un passage de neige et de glace remonte entre des ressauts rocheux.

The climbing party next to us was acting a little crazy!

Une cordée apparaît en contrebas d’un pilier de rocher doré.

We've hit the chute! We're both really happy with how the day turned out...

We still have a little time left, so to spice up the return trip a bit, we’ll head up to the Cosmiques Ridge via a couloir before finishing with the classic route along the ridge...