With Sylvain, we guide Frank and Julien up the Z on La Meije’s north face, bivouacking below. Incredible conditions on the face and traverse!
After our mixed climbing on the Pelvoux, Frank and I head for the Meije’s north face to climb the Z… The heavy snowfall has left the faces beautifully filled in: conditions are amazing! And after three days on a potato–chicken–nap diet, we’re certainly full of beans!
Sylvain and Julien join us for this little adventure. We choose to bivouac at the top of the Enfetchores: a very good option for taking it easy on day one, but retrieving our gear on day two turns out to be quite a mission!
As expected, the snow on the Z is lovely and squeaky underfoot: we cruise up… We just try a variation near the start to avoid following the other rope teams, but that isn’t our brightest idea! An hour lost and a bonus mini “Z”!
In the end, the Meije ridge traverse — and above all retrieving the bivouac gear — turn out to be the day’s cruxes!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Bivouac above the Enfetchores
- Approach with Frank, Sylvain and Julien and set up a bivouac at the top of the Enfetchores before climbing the Z on the Meije’s north face.
J2 — Z route and Meije ridge traverse
- Climb the Z in excellent snow conditions. A variation attempted near the start to avoid the other rope teams costs us around an hour. Continue along the Meije ridge traverse, then retrieve the bivouac gear, which turns out to be one of the day’s cruxes!
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