With Frank, a long day on Pointe Puiseux’s north ridge: rock, snow and sunset above a sea of clouds, followed by a late arrival at the Pelvoux hut.
After considering countless plans across the Alps, the weather finally sends Frank and me to the Écrins!
Fresh snow has plastered everything. The north faces could do with another clear day for conditions to develop. Since we only have one fine day available, I suggest a “one-shot” outing from Glacier Noir.
Fortunately, Frank is ready to spring into action! I pick him up in L’Argentière that evening, and we head to Madame Carle’s for a short nap…
The original idea was a predominantly snow route, perhaps on Ailefroide’s north face. But the faces have not shed enough fresh snow yet, and conditions could complicate the steep sections.
I therefore suggest a much rockier route: Pointe Puiseux’s north ridge on Pelvoux. A long day ahead, especially in these conditions!
And long it certainly proves to be. Like any respectable long day, it begins with an impressive failure to wake up on time!
On the final pitches, Frank even starts mentally preparing for an unplanned bivouac. A prospect his guide is not particularly keen to add to the programme…
Rock, plenty of rock, and increasingly wet snow frequently force us onto tougher variations. The climbing is sustained, and in these conditions we do very little moving together.
Add a few minor route-finding errors and a rigorous training regime based on Pic d’Arsine, and we have all the ingredients for an interesting finishing time!
It may not bring us to a comfortable dinner table, but it does give us one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen in the Écrins.
A sea of clouds in every direction, leaving only our little Pelvoux island untouched… Moments of grace like that make you forget the effort!
We would have loved to finish with pasta and a beer at the Pelvoux hut, but our radio call goes unanswered. We discover the next morning that Damien had been waiting for us and had simply slipped away for a shower!
Reaching the hut around midnight, we nibble whatever food remains in our packs before surrendering to a restorative coma beneath thick duvets.
Proper Écrins adventure. Thank you, Frank, for placing your trust in me!
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