With Ivan on the Meije’s third tooth via Chapoutot-Dibona: elegant south-face climbing, perfect weather and a mischievous block that damages our rope.
A weather window for the Meije
For the second year running, Ivan and I meet up for a “big climb” in the Écrins. Last year, without a long enough weather window for the Meije, we settled for a one-day climb on the south pillar of Barre Noire. A very fine consolation prize. We felt good, worked well as a rope team, and Ivan’s summit charcuterie was unforgettable! Promising beginnings!
This year looked set to follow the same pattern: the weather wasn’t disastrous, but afternoon thunderstorms kept threatening. Hardly conditions for heading confidently onto this sort of route.
By nibbling into Ivan’s holiday time and shifting some work around on my side, we manage to extend our time together into the weekend, when a window seems to be opening... Suspense until the last moment, and a strategy that pays off!
Chapoutot-Dibona: the direct route to the third tooth
With rock-solid weather, we head onto the south face of the Meije after a night at the Promontoire hut among the hikers. The collapse at Glacier Carré had understandably kept most of the area’s usual mountaineers away... It’s funny to feel like an endangered species in a place like this...
The direct route to the third tooth cleverly combines two lines: the Chapoutot route through the granite slabs of the Bastion, followed by the Dibona route up the steep gneiss step. Neighbouring the Pierre Allain, it shares that route’s logic, style and elegance. Its only crime is that it doesn’t finish on the Grand Pic!! We see that as an advantage: the return along the traverse will be that much shorter!
We both savour this fine journey on the Meije, almost without a hitch. A mischievous block in the Stofer crack could have shortened Ivan’s hand, but in the end, it only takes its frustration out on one of our two ropes! Apart from that, everything goes smoothly, and we continue straight back down to the valley!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 – Refuge du Promontoire
- With Ivan, we head up to the refuge du Promontoire to make the most of a reliable weather window and prepare for the next day’s climb.
Day 2 – Meije, Direct Route to the Third Tooth
- We climb the Chapoutot-Dibona through granite slabs and steep gneiss, then follow the traverse back towards the valley, with a mischievous block taking its toll on one rope.
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