Back on the Meije with Jean-Yves and Marie-Noëlle via the Pierre Allain route: south-face climbing, a surprise ibex and a long descent to the Promontoire.
The story begins two years ago with Jean-Yves and Marie-Noëlle. We didn’t know each other yet, and they had asked me to guide them on the traverse of La Meije. That was already quite a serious climb—a great way to get to know each other!
They hit it off right away, and this couple of passionate climbers made short work of La Reine!
Two years later, the urge to see the Virgin again began to stir within them once more. This time, they would visit her via the most direct route up the south face: the beautiful Pierre Allain…
The suspense over my availability and the weather conditions remained until the very end. Finally, right at the very end of the time slot, we managed to squeeze in during a brief window of opportunity. Phew!
The South Face of La Meije via the Pierre Allain Route
Due to last-minute logistical issues, we’ve decided to do a round trip starting from La Bérarde, which means descending via the standard route.
Having done it a few times before, I know this one is no walk in the park! In any case, aside from the aerial route, no descent from La Meije is easy. That’s also what gives this kind of project its scope and demands such commitment.
I know it's going to be a long day, but I'm feeling confident: my teammates are reliable!
A few rope teams are setting out this morning for the south face of La Meije, where there are numerous routes. However, there will only be two rope teams on the Pierre Allain today. The second team—who are very friendly, by the way—prefers to let us lead the way.
The route, in general terms, isn't really that complicated. But when you look at the details, it's easy to get lost in some pretty challenging variations!
This is the third time I’ve climbed this route—and actually the fourth time for the upper section. So, naturally, I’m starting to get the hang of it! I take the opportunity every time to try out different variations and find the best route. I think this time, we were pretty close!
On the “Fauteuil”—the name given to the base of the south face—we had an unexpected encounter with a young ibex in the middle of a mountaineering adventure! See the “Ibex Incident” report on the Promontoire Refuge website.
From the green chimney to the summit
Above the base, the climbing is sustained at IV+ difficulty, with numerous sections rated V and V+. That’s already quite a challenge at over 3,500 meters, on big routes, with a backpack and only half a lung!
The last 200 meters make it seem like you've arrived with every step… But every time, another ledge suddenly appears!
It took 7 hours and 30 minutes of climbing from the bergschrund before we could finally reach the summit of La Vierge. Even though our heads are in the clouds, the thrill of being here is overwhelming for Jean-Yves and Marie-Noëlle.
A descent as challenging as the climb
Now all that's left is to bring it all back down!
After 4 hours and 30 minutes of downclimbing and rappelling, we’re enjoying some soup at the Promontoire…
No one would have turned down a good night’s sleep and a lie-in at the shelter after an adventure like that. But for us, it’ll be the valley tonight after all!
I have an appointment at the maternity ward!
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