With Jean and Marie, we traverse La Meije from the Promontoire to the Aigle hut ahead of the storms, with time for crêpes and a few tunes from Louis.
Four days after traversing La Meije with Jacques and Oliv, I’m back on this beautiful mountain!
When Jean and Marie get in touch the previous week about doing the traverse, I’m initially a little wary. The prospect of setting off with two people I haven’t climbed with before on a committing route at altitude, without a warm-up climb together, doesn’t exactly fill me with enthusiasm…
After a longer chat on the phone, Jean explains. They’re excellent rock climbers. They may have limited alpine experience, but they’ve already climbed plenty of substantial rock routes, including some serious ones in the Pyrenees. I relax a little and suggest setting aside three days so we can stay at the Aigle hut if needed. In any case, the Enfetchores approach should give us a sense of how things are going! All we need now is a weather window without too much thunderstorm activity, and we’re off!
Day 1 — The Enfetchores and the Promontoire hut
Well, that little gamble pays off! I get on with Marie and Jean straight away, and they bound up the Enfetchores like Pyrenean chamois. They’re fit, sure-footed and know how to pace themselves. The Enfetchores don’t tell you everything, but they’re a good indicator!
The only bit they’re less keen on is the scrappy ground on the descent from the notch. Fair enough! Fortunately, there’s no terrain quite like that on the traverse itself.
We reach the hut in mid-afternoon, with plenty of time to enjoy the place and the welcome from Fredi, Nathalie and their trainee Guillaume. Life is good at the Promontoire!
The one concern is the weather. Thunderstorms look possible tomorrow. Fredi gives us the evening bulletin, and the two forecasts disagree. Briançon expects the first storms at 1pm, while Grenoble sees nothing before 5pm. We’ll keep a close eye on it!
Day 2 — Grand Pic, Doigt de Dieu and back to the valley
The alarm goes at 3am. This time, I actually wake up!
At 3:40am we leave the hut terrace. We’re the first of four rope teams at the Pas du Crapaud. Thanks to Philippe, I discover that what I thought was the Pas du Crapaud is actually a variation! There’s something to be said for bumping into fellow guides on the mountain!
We make good time out in front. I try to rein my two companions in a little, but they seem happy with the pace. Right then, on we go!
Everything flows. The pitches come one after another like notes on a score: Campement des Demoiselles, Couloir Duhamel, Miroir, Dalle Castelnau, Dos d’Âne, Vire aux Encoches, Dalle des Autrichiens, Pas du Chat, Vire du Glacier Carré, Glacier Carré, Cheval Rouge, Chapeau du Capucin… And the Grand Pic!
It’s 7:45am. We’re still out in front and feeling relaxed about what lies ahead. Time to enjoy the summit!
The rest of the journey goes smoothly to the Doigt de Dieu, with ropework, an icy couloir and ridge climbing. The Tabuchet glacier is still straightforward to cross — for how much longer, who knows? — and we reach the hut at about 12:45pm. More than I could have asked for! Perhaps yesterday’s briefing on thunderstorms and decision-making put Jean and Marie under a little pressure!
We have plenty of time, so we decide to descend the same day, after a good two-hour break for crêpes and a few accordion tunes from Louis. Bliss!
We reach the Pont des Brebis in two and a half hours. Just enough time to pick up the second car in La Grave and settle into the bar before a curtain of rain comes down. We’re quite happy to watch it with a beer in hand! The Grenoble forecasters got it right after all.
Thanks to you both. It was perfect!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Enfetchores and the Promontoire hut
- Jean, Marie and I climb the Enfetchores, cross the Brèche de la Meije and reach the Promontoire hut. The forecasts disagree on when thunderstorms will arrive the next day.
Day 2 — Ridge traverse and descent to the valley
- We leave at 3:40am, reach the Grand Pic at 7:45am, traverse to the Doigt de Dieu and arrive at the Aigle hut at about 12:45pm. After crêpes and accordion tunes from Louis, we descend to Pont des Brebis ahead of the rain.
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