With Raphaëlle and Michel, we climb La Mafia on the south face of Les Rouies. Adventure climbing in the Écrins, with a few naps at the belays thrown in.
The result of these last five summers spent guiding up there: a steadily increasing number of naps, but a sharp drop in the number of hikes I go on as a hobbyist during the summer!
This year, I’ve planned a short ten-day break in the middle of the season. So when my old climbing buddy ArnoC—aka Michel—suggested we go for some vertical adventure on a rock formation in our mountain range that’s been spared by erosion, it didn’t take me long to get excited…
Actually, I’m tagging along with Raphaëlle and Arno’s climbing party! I’m meeting them at 4:30 a.m. at Le Pigeonnier to check out the south face of Les Rouies, which has a terrifying reputation. For me, it’s just a day off. I’m taking it easy in the back, far from the lead climber’s worries!
It's not so bad to hang out at the rest stop, chat, and take a nap while watching others work…
All in all, a wonderful climb in good company on “La Mafia,” a multi-pitch route in adventurous terrain in the Écrins. The face does require a bit of experience, both for the lead climber and the belayers, if you want to make it out in one piece. On the agenda: an approach over unstable terrain, a tricky route, pitons that appear at the last moment—and are sometimes in worse condition than hoped for—and pitches that are easier but still challenging…
Interesting experiences I had that day:
- The sight of Michel watching me climb my first 6b, calmly letting it all out.
- Repeated naps at the rest stop.
- A jog in laced sneakers on the Rouies Glacier.
Vacations are great—we get to do things that are completely different!
The approach via the SE spur...
End of the approach
The wall gets steeper before the key pitches
A mountaineer who isn't upset about being happy.
Raphaëlle is the little blue dot in the first key pitch (6b).
Michel is finishing up his freshman year. What great progress, Michel!!
Raphaëlle at the end of the tricky ramp...
A high-mountain squatter basking in blissful contentment after his second nap...
Michel likes his feet
Micheline Finishes Her Junior Year
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