With Ju, we escape the heat on the Devies-Gervasutti route on Ailefroide Occidentale: 1100 metres of face, wrong turns and a descent that seems to never end.
What to do during this extreme heat wave… Lounge by the pool? Drink mojitos under the pergola all night while listening to reggae? Stick your head in the fridge?
After trying all these options down south, I quickly suggest one last alternative to Ju—aka Pépouze Herzog—to escape this damn heat that’s making our bodies go limp and our brains turn to mush—or maybe it’s the other way around: how about we go climbing somewhere cool?
La Devies-Gervasutti: A Way to Escape the Heat Wave
Obviously, if you want a challenge, you have to go out and find it: so let’s pick the highest, northernmost, and rockiest route in the area, rule out the ones we’ve already done or don’t feel like doing, and we’re left with: the Devies-Gervasutti route on the western face of Ailefroide.
The Western Ailefroide is our local Jorasses: a 1,100-meter face with virtually no visitors. The Devies-Gervasutti route, contrary to what its name might suggest, was primarily pioneered by Giusto Gervasutti, who led the entire climb despite breaking a rib during the approach. Not everyone can be a “Fortissimo.” That was in 1936. Climbers wore sneakers, placed pitons, and slept in Zdarsky sleeping bags: rubber-coated bags where you’d sweat and then freeze. It was a historic moment.
For this impromptu trip, we have to figure out a logistics plan that works with our schedules… Since I was supposed to work right after this near Bérarde—which ended up being canceled—I’m opting to leave from there. Ju, on the other hand, also has to work right after, but near Ailefroide… So we decided to meet up in Temple-Écrins: that way, everyone’s happy! It’s a longer trip for Ju, but at least he won’t have to cross another pass to get home!
Since it’s 2015, we have lightweight, high-performance gear, Camalots, pre-placed pitons, and plenty of information from online community networks… In short, we’re not going to freeze in a Zdarsky sleeping bag! Plus, Ju has to work the next day, so the plan is to climb up, climb down, and sleep at home.
Nighttime Approach and First Wrong Turn
We set out from the shelter at 3 a.m. Three years ago, we also set out from there to climb the Pilier des Temps Maudits. So we know the approach and the start of the climb… At least in theory! The approach is obviously a bit drier than it was in March 2012… The upside is that the loose terrain keeps you on your toes!
4:30 a.m.: I set off from the bergschrund, feeling motivated, toward what would turn out to be the first route mistake of the day! I started too far to the left and quickly found myself in a completely smooth dihedral, with a V+ section ahead that didn’t ring any bells! By the time I realized my mistake, climbed back down, and got back on the right path, I’d lost about half an hour… First thing in the morning, that’s frustrating!
The slab section that had taken us three hours to climb in the winter with crampons is now covered in half an hour, with a single long pull on the taut rope… Ju then takes over to traverse the couloir, at the waterfall, and the rocks leading to the base of the V-shaped cracks.
The climbing is easier than we thought. So we’re climbing these sections on a tight rope, using a Micro Traxion every now and then to make sure the second climber doesn’t pull the lead climber down in case of a fall… In one long pitch, I climb almost all the way to the top of the Red Tower. We’re making good progress!
Red Tower and Gray Slabs
We finished the Tour Rouge on some beautiful—red—rock and arrived at the base of the Dalles Grises—gray—the route’s crux. No rockfalls to report that day. And the slabs were certainly much less wet than they can get!
We climb the first 60-meter pitch, almost straight up, crossing the overhang that’s 4 to 5 meters above and to the left of Ju in the photo. A bit of 6a on dusty slabs. Even though I’m second, I wonder what my climbing shoes are doing at the bottom of my bag! According to the guidebook, the classic route would follow the overhang to the right instead.
From our belay station, I easily reach the route between two roofs. It’s much less slabby, and the route makes more sense—so much more sense, in fact, that I head off on a variation that will surely be the key move of the day, a 6b, just 2 meters from an easier ramp…
In short, a somewhat chaotic stretch on the slabs where we lost about half an hour getting lost…
Curved turns and exit chimneys
From there, the route is crystal clear: first, the arc-shaped ledge—fortunately not too steep, since it runs along a rock that’s utterly rotten.
Next comes a series of two chimney-like couloirs. The guides recommend avoiding the bottom of the first couloir by going around the pillar on the right. After a moment’s thought—or rather, a complete lack thereof—we headed into the couloir.
Although we didn’t follow the advice ourselves, we’d like to pass it on: stay to the right! If, like us, you’re drawn to the obscure crags of Oisans, don’t go too hard on the pitons you find there—they’re removed by hand!
The second corridor above, also followed along its base, leads to a sort of large ascending ramp that curves back to the left… We pass the small rocky outcrop described in the guidebook before heading into the exit chimneys. I belay Ju for a long, taut rope length that will take us all the way to the top of the route.
It’s a little before 11 a.m. when we collapse in the sun on the summit ridge. What a great climb! But we’re still feeling the fatigue… A good half-hour break in the sun to enjoy the moment and make a few work calls!
From the summit of the Western Ailefroide to our two return trips
For the rest of the route, we decided to descend via the standard route down the western Ailefroide to avoid having to rappel. Since the route ends at a secondary summit—oh, the shame!—we first had to traverse to the summit of the western Ailefroide. It takes a good half hour. It’s really nice to leave the austere face behind and stroll in the sunshine after all those hours in the shade!
The descent via the normal route is a great opportunity to awaken the chamois within us. This option is quick for those who love the fast-paced Oisans! It takes about 45 minutes from the summit to the bergschrund—so to speak, given what’s left of it.
This is where our paths part… It’s still strange to leave your climbing partner behind in the middle of the mountains!
Ju “just has to” head down… As for me, I decided to cross the Col d’Ailefroide without much information. First, I have to climb 250 m, over snow and ice, up to the pass. From the pass, I abseil 25 m using two pitons, from where I can then downclimb through the best that the greater Oisans region has to offer: rock that ensures the climber’s constant mobility! It’s also possible to descend without downclimbing using two 40-meter abseils…
To reach the Pilatte Glacier, at about 2,760 m, a love of rock climbing is essential. About 500 m of scree consisting of medium-sized boulders. I’m starting to dream of pasta and cold drinks—or mojitos by the pool while listening to reggae: we’ve come full circle!
This isn’t a break. Down the glacier and back up the cable cars… Around 3:30 p.m., I’m at La Pilatte. The phone rings: it’s Ju, who just arrived in Ailefroide! We’re in sync, guys! Well, all he has to do is step on the gas in his car; as for me, I’m not quite there yet…
The small team at the shelter is as friendly as ever. I hang out for a while, just to clear my head—over a nice bowl of noodles, as it happens—and enjoy the piano music… What a treat.
I make my way down, half-asleep, to La Bérarde. At Plan du Carrelet, I can’t resist the call of the green pastures. A nap is in order. At the foot of the face I climbed today. Or yesterday. Well, at this point, I’m not really sure anymore: it’s all getting a bit confusing!
I ended the day with a good drive back home: a four-hour drive, thanks to the Chambon Tunnel… I arrived at midnight with a mark from the steering wheel on my forehead—from dozing off every quarter of an hour on the last stretch!
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