Three days of ski touring with Eddi, Tor and Karl around Valmeinier and the Terre Rouge hut: powder, a multi-day tour and beautiful remote valleys!
It’s already been three days since we’ve been crisscrossing the off-piste runs and hidden valleys in the resort with Eddi, Tor, and Karl—it’s time to set out on our own! The storm that swept through the northern Alps three days ago left behind fresh snow but also brought strong winds. So far, we’ve mostly been skiing in and around the forested areas. What will the conditions be like at higher elevations in these wind-exposed valleys?
Experience has taught me that you shouldn’t have too fixed an idea about conditions, even though, of course, you do need to anticipate them to some extent! Sometimes, armed with all our certainties, we imagine terrible conditions—a mountain ravaged by the wind, crusted-over slopes, and icy ridges with terrain that’s impossible to ski... yet once we’re there, if we open our eyes and use a little common sense, we find plenty of great things to do...
In short, as I set out on this new adventure toward the Terre Rouge Refuge—one year after my first visit—I’m heading out without knowing exactly what conditions to expect, but I’m feeling confident! In any case, the clear, windless weather is a wonderful invitation to glide through the Alps!
Day 1: Off-piste from Valmeinier and descent to Terre Rouge
The climb up to the Terre Rouge Refuge from Valmeinier is a bit of a grind for those who mainly enjoy downhill skiing! I suggest to the guys that we go through the resort, which will let us do a bit of off-piste skiing in the area, check out the conditions, and reach the refuge with less effort.
Right from the first few turns, you have to face the facts. We’re going to have to put up with these bursts of powder and the shouts of joy all over again!! The wind has really done its job, but if you look around a bit, you can find sheltered, unskied areas… we’re all for it!
One more turn and here we are on the ridge leading to the Pas des Griffes, from where it’s possible to descend directly to the shelter… Last year, this area treated us to a dream descent—will it live up to its promise again? Until we find out, we’re enjoying the view…
The verdict is clear: powder snow everywhere!
We put our boots back on for a short climb, during which we imagine what we might have for a snack at the mountain hut... “Reblochon omelet”—pronounced with a Norwegian accent—is on everyone’s lips!
Day 2: A quick trip to the pool and over to the two boobs
The handful of skiers at the lodge scatter in all directions—and especially toward Mont-Thabor, the local star! But my Norwegian friends and I aren’t part of the star system! The beauty of a summit and the elegance of a route really come into their own when combined with solitude and a great run!! Yesterday’s runs on the cold slope encourage me to try the same route again! Already last year, the ridges of La Pissine proved to be excellent!
We set off at a leisurely pace this morning toward our day of solitude... the climb takes place against a postcard-perfect backdrop...
After a nice break at the unnamed peak near the Pissine Pass, we climbed a little further to reach a valley that seemed very promising to me...
It's only been a few days in the mountains, and I'm already starting to feel the effects!
Here we are, in a great spot for the promised valley—it’s going to live up to all our expectations! Nothing but good stuff all the way to the refuge!
Of course, we don't skip our midday ritual!
Before hitting the slopes again, we set out to conquer two peaks 400 meters above the lodge—just to fill up the afternoon! Terrible skiing, of course!
It's going to be a lively evening at the lodge for the Génépi team, who will be showing off all their talent until the wee hours!!
Day 3: Return via Le Becquot and Le Grand Fourchon
With our heads still full of génépi fumes, we’re heading back this morning! But since just going home isn’t enough motivation to leave the lodge, I’ve put together a little itinerary of uphills and downhills—in powder, if possible—to end our week on a high note.
We start off with a run down the slopes of Becquot… the first run really sets the tone for the trip… hopelessly powdery. Not a single bit of crust to get under the tip of the ski. I haven’t given up hope of finding some right at the very end.
We then headed back up toward Grand Fourchon, without going all the way to the summit, for one last descent toward Valmeinier, where—after searching thoroughly—we finally found a few slightly crusty patches, though unfortunately with quite a bit of powder in between.
Practical Info / Route Topo
Jour 1 – Valmeinier → Refuge de Terre Rouge
Départ par les remontées de Valmeinier pour profiter de quelques descentes hors-piste, puis traversée vers le Pas des Griffes. Descente en poudreuse jusqu’au refuge de Terre Rouge et courte remontée en fin de journée.
Jour 2 – Secteur de la Pissine
Départ du refuge vers le passage de la Pissine et montée à un sommet voisin. Descente par une combe en poudreuse jusqu’au refuge, puis nouvelle sortie l’après-midi sur les mamelons situés environ 400 m au-dessus de Terre Rouge.
Jour 3 – Becquot et Grand Fourchon → Valmeinier
Retour vers Valmeinier en passant par les flancs du Becquot, avec une première descente en poudreuse, puis remontée en direction du Grand Fourchon avant une dernière longue descente vers la station.
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