Three days discovering ice climbing at Aiguilles, Madame Tape Dur, Paulo Folie and Torrent de Queyrières, with first steps towards independent climbing.
Barely back from a fine session of powder skiing and génépi around the Refuge de Terre Rouge, I stop at home just long enough to pack for two days of ice climbing and give the little ones a cuddle! Switching between two activities as different as skiing and ice climbing isn’t always straightforward, especially when you need to make sure all the kit is there!
Louis, Louise, Camille and Pierrot have started with a day on the artificial icefall in Aiguilles, warming up their legs and arms, getting a feel for their crampons and working on wrist movement and climbing technique… All under the watchful eye and guidance of our master, the wonderfully romantic Yann!
Day 2: Madame Tape Dur and Paulo Folie
I suggest a day in two parts. In the morning, we head to Madame Tape Dur to refine movement and practise placing ice screws for those who want to. A few top-rope exercises help everyone gain confidence in their crampons… That way, I can check that they’re ready for a slightly longer adventure this afternoon. I also make sure the boys are ready to climb as an independent rope team under my supervision!
The morning goes well. We move towards the head of the valley, where Paulo Folie awaits us. Not a soul around! I’m roped up with Louise and Camille. Louis and Pierrot follow, using the screws I leave in place to climb with confidence. They also need to place a few extra screws themselves. A gentle introduction to their first icefall as an independent team! Three lovely pitches take us to the top, before a walking descent along an unlikely ledge!
Day 3: Torrent de Queyrières
For our final day, we climb the Torrent de Queyrières, still climbable, though probably not for much longer… After just a few minutes of walking, we’re completely immersed in the atmosphere of the canyon. No long sustained pitches here, but plenty of ice steps that gradually increase in difficulty.
As yesterday, I’m roped up with Camille and Louise, with the boys following us… We explore other belaying techniques, a little moving together, and so on. For the final, more technical steps, I either belay both teams or place the screws, keeping everyone more relaxed! The penultimate step is on its last legs, and the mixed passage calls for delicate movement to avoid an icy bath!!
After the final step, we continue all the way up the ravine and walk down… A chance to sample the “harshness” of the winter climate in 2019!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — First ice climbing moves in Aiguilles
- Louis, Louise, Camille and Pierrot discover the artificial icefall in Aiguilles with Yann: crampon and ice axe technique, movement and first sensations on ice.
J2 — Madame Tape Dur and Paulo Folie
- Morning top-rope practice on Madame Tape Dur, refining footwork and placing ice screws. In the afternoon, three pitches on Paulo Folie: Louise and Camille climb with me, while Louis and Pierrot form an independent team under supervision. Walking descent along a ledge.
J3 — Ice steps and mixed climbing in Queyrières
- Climb the Torrent de Queyrières through increasingly technical steps, exploring different belaying methods. Closer support on the final sections, followed by an ascent of the remaining ravine and a walking descent.
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