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September 11, 2013

Monte Viso - Cresta Berhault

Two days along the Cresta Berhault to Monte Viso: a long ridge traverse between Queyras and Piedmont, hut nights and memorable encounters along the way.

Roped mountaineer on the Cresta Berhault, with Monte Viso and a sea of clouds behind

The Cresta Berhault? What is that, then?

A long ridge with a wonderfully uncompromising line, starting at the Col de la Traversette and finishing on the summit of Monte Viso. Six kilometres on the map, and surely much more once you follow every rise and fall! A fine journey suspended between Queyras and the Po Plain… The very same Po Plain that sends us that wretched nebbia whenever the weather turns fine!

The first complete traverse was made in 1968 by Hervé Tranchero and his friend Livio Patrile. During our trip in 2013, these two guides were the wardens of the Vallante and Quintino Sella huts. We met them both, having chosen the lightweight, comfortable option: sleeping in huts!

Hervé told us that he had done it loaded like a mule, with more than 20 kg on his back… You had to be properly fired up for that!

Patrick Berhault’s winter ascent of this ridge, in apocalyptic conditions, remains a feat that deeply impressed the locals. They hold Patrick in great admiration and felt that naming the ridge after him was a fitting tribute.

We split the route as follows:

Day 1 — From Giacoletti to the Col de Due Ditta

From the Giacoletti hut, we cross the Col de la Traversette and traverse as far as the Col de Due Ditta. We leave our climbing gear there, then descend to the Vallante hut in around thirty minutes.

Day 2 — Visolotto and Monte Viso’s north-west ridge

We leave Vallante and climb back to Due Ditta in just under an hour. We continue over Visolotto and along Monte Viso’s north-west ridge. We descend by the normal route and spend the night at the Quintino Sella hut.

It is a fantastic way to reach Monte Viso, best suited to all-terrain chamois and lovers of solitude!

One oddity, which was not universally appreciated in the area when we visited, was the excessive fixed protection between the Couloir du Porc and the Passo Giacoletti. A bolt every two metres, even where completely unnecessary. Bolts beside cracks or large rock spikes: what is the point?

Practical Info / Route Topo

Day 1 — Giacoletti, Traversette and Due Ditta

  • From the Giacoletti hut, cross the Col de la Traversette and traverse to the Col de Due Ditta before descending to spend the night at the Vallante hut.

Day 2 — Visolotto and the summit of Monte Viso

  • Return to the Col de Due Ditta, traverse Visolotto and climb Monte Viso’s north-west ridge, then descend by the normal route and spend the night at the Quintino Sella hut.
AlpinismeRidge climbVisoGrandes coursesPiémont

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