Three days of multi-pitch climbing in the Verdon with Roberto and Frank: pocketed limestone, abseils and bivouacs before heading back to the mountains.
With Frank and Antoine, we’re always in for some great adventures! This fall, we’re putting together a great itinerary centered around climbing in the Verdon before wrapping things up in style with an ascent of the Desmaison route on Pic de Bure... Not bad for a first multi-pitch climb!!
It all starts in Gap, where we meet up. We cram as much gear as we can into the Jumpy and drive full speed toward the Verdon to escape the gloomy weather that’s been settling over the mountains for two days (yes, it happens even in the south!). We don’t have a set plan, but the idea is to stay there for two or three days, depending on how we feel, before heading back to the mountains.
On the first day, I try not to forget that my Roberto has virtually no experience with multi-pitch routes yet. Frank, on the other hand, has a bit more experience under his belt: last year we did some great climbs between the Hautes-Alpes and the Vercors—lots of fun and brand-new calluses on our fingers by the end of the trip! We set out to climb the Venellois Spur at the Haut Vernis cliff—a great introduction to climbing in the Verdon with some beautiful drips, special mention to the last three pitches! It was a serious start right off the bat, with some solid 6b sections—not for the faint of heart!! All of this 200 meters above the Verdon River and its stream of cyclists. Awesome.
A cocktail hour and a 4-star campsite not far from La Palud to wrap up the day.
Day two was split into two parts. We started with a recent route set by Faudou at L'Eycharme: *Redressement Discal*. A stunning 150-meter meandering route that required my two climbing partners to pull out all the technical stops!! Not a very long route, but definitely a real challenge.
After this quick warm-up, we set off to do a bit of sightseeing along the Route des Crêtes. A sandwich and a quick coffee near L’Escalès, with a 300-meter drop right at our feet. We hung out for a bit before heading back out in the cool air for a second route—very, very classic, though absolutely fantastic! “So That No One Dies…” A route that, back in the day, was bolted in a “beginner-friendly” style—a far cry from the commitment required by some of its neighbors… you can tell that bolting standards have changed quite a bit! Today, a route with a bolt every 5–6 meters is considered elite!!
With three hours to go before nightfall, we’re enjoying complete tranquility in this sometimes overcrowded section of the Gorges… a baptism by fire on the Verdon rappels for my two buddies… once the last rappel is done, there’s no choice but to climb back up! That really sets the mood! The climbing is already easier than on this morning’s route, and despite our fatigue, things are going smoothly—with the added bonus of the stunning glow of the sunset. We head out at dusk and follow the same routine as the day before: find a bivouac spot, have some drinks, eat dinner, and go to sleep!
For the third day, we decided on a classic route in the Gorges, “L’Offre,” which a friend who’s a certified climbing instructor had highly recommended to us the day before... No 6b today (or so we thought!), but varied climbing with quite a few dihedral sections—tricky for anyone who struggles with off-balancing moves! A great learning experience! The atmosphere in the Gorges at this spot is just exceptional… and the climbing is really enjoyable, with a rock surface that lets you forget you’re even climbing!
Three incredible days—just the kind the Verdon is known for! Now, off to the Dévoluy!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Éperon des Venellois
- Our first multi-pitch route at Haut Vernis, with lovely pocketed limestone and sections graded 6b. Drinks and a bivouac near La Palud round off the day.
J2 — Redressement Discal and Afin que Nul ne meure
- Technical climbing at l’Eycharme in the morning, followed by a break along the Route des Crêtes. Later, we discover Verdon abseils and climb Afin que Nul ne meure in the evening light.
J3 — L’Offre
- A gorge classic with varied climbing and plenty of corners to practise bridging. After three days of multi-pitch climbing, we head for the Dévoluy.
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