With Tonio and Frank, I climbed the Desmaison route to the summit of Bure: a 600-meter cliff face, a few moments of doubt, and a beautiful vertical journey in the Dévoluy.
After three days of warming up in the Verdon, here we are at the base of that climbing landmark—the Desmaison route on Pic de Bure—first climbed by René, our very own god! Of course, for my Roberto—who discovered multi-pitch climbing just three days ago—questions are swirling in his cabeza, especially when the pillar is bathed in the first light of day! Is my guide crazy?
The start of the route is demanding and austere. You feel as if you’re being crushed by the 600-meter wall towering overhead. The 6c/A0 section, though not particularly technical, takes a lot of energy and isn’t exactly the most exciting part of the climb...
Enough to push our doubts to the absolute limit!! A few words of encouragement at the first belay station and two or three pitches of “real” climbing, and there’s our Roberto, fired up again—the guy’s got stamina and knows how to pull through when it counts!! The rhythm kicks in, and we move from belay station to belay station—sometimes even catching a bit of sun! The wind, while not violent, makes its presence felt, as it often does in this spot...
The sun reappears high on the route, and after 7.5 hours of “vertical yoga,” we suddenly return to the horizontal plane—on the moonlit Bure Plateau!! The tension of the climb eases; we’re all happy!! We celebrate this great achievement with sandwiches in hand!! The view today is simply incredible and perfectly panoramic... One of those fall days where a sense of eternity hangs in the air... (poetry by a fifth-grade guide).
A bit of chamois terrain to make our way down from up there and wrap up these four amazing days. Way to go, guys! You really earned it this time! Thanks for once again putting up with all the hardships I put you through! See you next time
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