I share five days of introductory mountaineering in the Écrins with Jonathan and Roger: first ridges, crampon skills and plenty of laughs on the rope.
Jonathan and Roger had been feeling drawn to the joys of the mountains for a little while now… so at the beginning of September, they decided to take the plunge into the unknown!! We hit the jackpot—the weather forecast for the five days is just perfect… after a hot, dry summer, the mountains are parched! So I’m focusing the itinerary on rock climbs, which our small group makes possible!
My two guys are in a spirit of total exploration, with no preconceptions, and have absolutely no idea what’s in store for them!! They have no choice but to trust me completely...
For the first day, I suggest we go do some rock climbing on an easy route—in hiking boots, of course... First impressions: the verticality, the ropes, and those “super complex” knots! It was also a chance for me to see the team’s potential! Although they were total beginners, they made rapid progress, and after two warm-up routes, we set out to climb the Eperon Bouchier, a multi-pitch route in a rural setting...
Building on yesterday’s experience, I suggest that on the second day we gain some elevation toward the Arêtes de la Bruyère, a stunning ridge route perched facing the Ecrins. My two little rascals can’t believe they’re balancing like tightrope walkers on a ridge like this… Everything goes perfectly; the conditions are ideal, and we’re all alone.
I’m taking a break for the third day—I just can’t keep up!! I’m handing things over to my buddy Julien, the guide, who’s taking Jon and Roger up to climb the standard route on the West Râteau… another gorgeous day, and the two days of rock climbing from the previous days will really pay off on the final stretch!!
On this fourth day, we’ll head up the Glacier Blanc to delve a little deeper into the crampon techniques we briefly covered at the Râteau and explore the Glacier Blanc. The mountain is deserted. We wander through this labyrinth of crevasses, this frozen ocean! Every now and then, cries of wonder ring out. I, of course, am jaded by the sheer routine of it all.
Last but not least. A nice little outing today: the south ridge of the Glacier Blanc. We’re sticking to the theme. This beautiful climb, which is already quite challenging in terms of scale and difficulty, offers mind-blowing views of the upper part of the glacier and the Barre... Roger and Jon are in top form after the week they’ve spent together. Once they’ve overcome the initial challenges—which give them a bit of a cold wake-up call—they make their way along the ridge almost effortlessly. Once again today, the mountain seems deserted. All the better. Once again today, the weather is at its best. It’s not easy every day...
Congratulations to both of you on these wonderful achievements; I had a wonderful week in your laid-back company. See you again soon!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — First steps on Éperon Bouchier
- An introduction to climbing in mountain boots, ropes and knots, followed by Éperon Bouchier to put these first skills into practice.
J2 — Arêtes de la Bruyère
- Our first ridge route facing the Écrins. The team builds confidence on the rocky crest, with good conditions and peaceful surroundings.
J3 — Râteau Ouest with Julien
- An ascent of the normal route on Râteau Ouest with Julien. Skills learned during the first two days prove useful on the final rocky section.
J4 — Glacier skills on the Glacier Blanc
- Further crampon practice and an exploration of the Glacier Blanc, among crevasses and ice formations.
J5 — South ridge of Pic du Glacier Blanc
- A more substantial route to finish the week, with rocky climbing and fine views over the Glacier Blanc and the Barre des Écrins.
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