A rock trip in the Oisans with Arnaud, from the Pilier Chèze to the Dibona via the north ridge of Pointe d’Amont. Great granite and plenty of climbing!
Arnaud contacted me at the last minute about a trip to the Ecrins for a few days. I didn’t know him yet, but our initial phone conversations revealed that he was really motivated! Off to Oisans for four days of rock climbing, which we powered through at a brisk pace!!
Chèze Pillar - Tête du Replat
Our climbing team’s first steps on the Chèze Pillar, a beautiful route perched high above the Chatelleret Refuge. As it turns out, the longest part of today’s outing will be the approach!! The climb takes place on magnificent, solid red rock... despite the forecast of sunshine, the day begins under overcast skies and a chilly atmosphere bordering on frostbite. It takes more than that to rattle Arnaud, who tackles the difficult sections without batting an eye! The weather doesn’t seem inclined to follow the forecast, and sleet starts falling just as we’re coming out of the crux sections.... Once we reach the summit, bees are literally buzzing all around us!! Cassos! The descent down the Replat is completed quickly. Now we’re in the rain. A light rain, sneakily driven down by the wind, that ends up soaking everything—even our underwear!! Meanwhile, flashes of lightning crack across the neighboring peaks... We arrive at the Selle refuge. A nap, comics, drying our clothes, music, beer... no time to get bored!
Pointe d'Amont - North Ridge
After our wet warm-up the day before, our climbing team will be able to reach its full potential today, despite a few lingering traces of yesterday’s soaking!! Our plan is to traverse toward the Soreiller refuge via this beautiful classic route... Having watched Arnaud in action the day before, I had a feeling that this beautiful route might not be enough to satisfy his appetite for rock climbing!! In the back of my mind, I’m already starting to come up with possible plans to round out the day...
Indeed, everything is going smoothly; confidence is building within the rope team, and we’re making good progress with long pulls on the taut rope. Arnaud takes the lead on one section. Above that, the two key pitches are magnificent, with a truly vertical feel and solid rock that lets you really let loose—even on big moves!
Once we’d made it past the difficult section, we came to one of the route’s signature features: the big rock pinnacle! Instead of going around it from below, we decided to traverse it in the sun… and Arnaud started goofing around!
Just a little further along the ridge and we’ll be at the summit of the central peak of the Soreiller. We’ll descend by scrambling down, then head straight to the shelter. Martine welcomes us, a little stunned to see us at this early hour… it’s 11 a.m.!
We take a break for an hour and a half to eat and nap before heading back out to the Savoyards route... The route was first ascended in big shoes. Too bad for them! We prefer climbing shoes—they’re more effective in these slightly loose cracks!! The style is pretty demanding for the lead climber, with belaying that’s a bit tricky on pitons, but the rock is perfect. An insane pitch traversing beneath the overhang gives you an idea of the route-setters’ determination… three more easier pitches and we’re done for the day. Four mandatory rappels drop us almost right back to our shoes! We even have time to relax a bit before happy hour.
The Ethics of Joy
What should we do on this last day? We’re considering a variety of options with different flavors… but in the end, we’ll go with a modern route.
While a swarm of climbers crowds around the first belay stations of the beautiful "Visite Obligatoire"—a route that has become a victim of its own success—we head over to the east face, enduring a tedious approach that takes at least 5 minutes!
Our punishment for the day: L'Ethique de la joie. The little sister of Visite Obligatoire—perhaps with a little less atmosphere but much more peace and quiet, insanely long stretches, and earlier morning sunshine. We won’t regret our choice for a second!
A great start that hints at some exhausting projects ahead for the guide!!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Pilier Chèze and the Selle hut
- Our first route together follows the beautiful red rock of the Pilier Chèze on the Tête du Replat. Graupel, then thunder and rain keep the breaks short: we descend to the Selle hut for drying clothes, comic books and beer.
J2 — Pointe d’Amont north ridge and the Savoyards
- Efficient progress on the north ridge, with Arnaud leading one section, gets us to the Soreiller hut by 11 am. After a break, we have a second helping on the Voie des Savoyards on the Dibona, then abseil down Visite Obligatoire.
J3 — L’Éthique de la joie on the Dibona
- We choose the peace and early sunshine of the east face over the crowds on Visite Obligatoire. A day on the beautiful granite of L’Éthique de la joie rounds off the rock trip, with Arnaud as motivated as ever!
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