With Alain and Paul, I link Pointe Marie-Louise and the West Râteau on a two-day Écrins mountaineering trip, with ice, rock and a night at Selle hut.
Pointe Marie-Louise and Râteau Ouest: Two Days with Alain and Paul
The years go by, and Alain is back for the umpteenth time. We’ve lost count! Our climbing team, like a fine wine, gets better with age…
This year, Alain is coming with Paul, one of his sons, who is taking his first steps in mountaineering. Although he grew up by the ocean, Paul clearly has some strong ibex genes just waiting to come out. He’ll quickly find his footing on the steep routes we’ll be taking!
Day 1 — Pointe Marie-Louise and the Selle Shelter
Right from the start, Paul jumps into an intensive training regimen! The Pic de la Grave, our original goal, is already in poor condition… The heat and drought are taking a heavy toll on the area. So I opt for an alternative route right nearby: Pointe Marie-Louise.
The difficulty level is a bit higher, and Paul gets his first taste of using crampons on a short 45° ice section! Fortunately, we quickly return to snow, and then to the exposed rocks of this rarely climbed peak.
A great warm-up on this short but well-rounded race, featuring a variety of terrain!
We descend near the normal route up Pic de la Grave, but we keep our distance: there are menacing boulders perched on the ice. I belay Alain and Paul as they cross the bergschrund, and for my part, I take a brief detour via the standard route. A rock whizzes past just a few meters above my head. Yuck!
All that’s left is to make our way down the scree slope of the Col de la Lauze to reach the Refuge de la Selle. My two chamois breeze through the descent, and less than three-quarters of an hour later, we’re at the refuge. There’s nothing like a little snack to perk you up!
There are seven of us at the shelter tonight… Ah, the crowds in the Écrins!
Day 2 — Râteau Ouest via the Girose Couloir
Today, the plan is to come full circle by ascending the Râteau Ouest via the Girose couloir. The conditions probably won’t hold out much longer, but for us, it’s all good. Mother Nature has even granted us a bit of refreezing overnight!
The couloir is safe to climb, and we set out early for the Col de la Girose.
The weather is perfect today. You can see everything over there!
At this early hour, we’re obviously alone on the mountain; most of the climbers heading for the Râteau Ouest won’t arrive until much later, thanks to the wonders of the ski lifts! It’s a pleasure we’re more than happy to enjoy. We reach the climbing section just as the sun begins to warm the rock perfectly.
Last year, around this time, Alain, Tristan, and I had to stop 50 meters short of the summit because of the cornices. It's hard to believe, given this year's conditions!
Enjoy a moment of contemplation at the summit... when the mountain is a treat!
On the way down, we ran into the first rope teams coming down via the cable car. Paul, driven by scientific curiosity, set out to explore the bergschrund… with no serious consequences, other than realizing the importance of the rope!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Pointe Marie-Louise and the Selle hut
- With Pic de la Grave out of condition, we choose Pointe Marie-Louise. Paul learns to use crampons on a short section of 45° ice, then we continue over snow and rock before descending via Col de la Lauze to the Selle hut.
Day 2 — West Râteau via the Girose
- After a little overnight refreeze, we climb the Girose couloir and continue to the West Râteau on sun-warmed rock. We enjoy a summit break before meeting parties coming up from the cable car on our descent.
Client Testimonials (0)
No testimonials yet. Did you join this outing? Leave your review!
Write a review
Share your experience of this adventure. Access restricted to participants.
Want to experience this type of adventure?
Contact me to plan your custom high-mountain project.
Contact me