With Alain and Tristan, I adapt our Écrins mountaineering week to the conditions: Cavales, turnarounds, West Râteau and a joyful summit on the Barre.
This year, Alain is coming with Tristan, who’s just started his vacation! This is the fourth year I’ve gone to the mountains with Alain, but Tristan hadn’t been back since 2013, when we climbed the Ailefroide Orientale and the Pelvoux.
Day 1 — Reunion at the Pavé Shelter
We meet up at the Pavé mountain hut, where we’re the first guests of the year. Sophie, the caretaker, is in the midst of kicking off the season.
Le Pavé is a truly unique mountain hut. This curious metal cabin, which bears more resemblance to Soviet-style mountain huts than to Swiss chalets, officially became the Pavé mountain hut after the original building was destroyed by an avalanche—just a few dozen meters away—in the very year it opened…
In June 2016, the cabin is spartan and showing its age, but its setting is magnificent: on the shores of Lake Pavé, at over 2,800 meters, at the foot of some of the Écrins’ giants, such as Pic Gaspard, the Grande Ruine, and the Pavé.
Sophie successfully puts all her energy into making the place comfortable and welcoming. We help her with the daily chores, which are a bit more numerous at the start of this snowy season.
Day 2 — Normal Route to the North Peak of Les Cavales
What a treat to start the day with a good breakfast! Artisanal bread, local jams… With a special mention for the chestnut jam!
Today, we’re heading to the northern peak of Les Cavales for a short warm-up ride before tackling more ambitious projects. Alain had always dreamed of climbing this beautiful pyramid of flawless granite, which, despite being lower in elevation than the “big ones” nearby, offers a unique view of La Meije and Les Étançons.
The weather forecast we’d heard on the radio the day before had simply said, “nice weather.” Yet when we woke up, it was drizzling!
We wait patiently and set off at the first sign of improvement. There’s still snow on the route, which makes the climb more challenging, especially on the initial slabs. After that, we follow the ridge as close to the edge as possible to avoid the snow. We reach the summit in the drizzle, which has picked up again.
The view hasn’t really cleared up, but every now and then we catch a glimpse of the Grande Ruine emerging from the clouds and, far below us, the bottom of the Étançons valley. La Meije, on the other hand, keeps its lower slopes hidden from us.
Back to our little cabin for a delicious omelet and some rest. We’ve got to be ready: tonight, Sophie’s making us a croziflette!
Tomorrow, we’ll wake up at 3 a.m. with the goal of reaching the Refuge de l’Aigle via the Meije Orientale. No pressure at all, of course: if conditions don’t allow it, we’ll head back to Le Pavé.
Day 3 — Maximin Gaspard Gorge: Those ledges are scary!
When we woke up, the weather was nice, just as promised! Yesterday’s heavy cloud cover didn’t allow the snow to settle enough. The refreeze is only superficial, and we’re sinking up to mid-calf as we climb toward the Col du Pavé.
Below the pass, things are even more hectic! The last 100 meters, which are steeper, are a bit challenging. Despite that, we arrive at the pass early. The bergschrund, which can be tricky to cross, is nowhere to be seen today.
A short stretch through the icy rocks leading to the snow-covered slopes really wakes us up! Above, conditions are good on the slopes leading to the Maximin Gaspard Pass. The snow gives way just enough on these 45° slopes, and we quickly emerge at the pass, dazzled by the sun.
The view is magnificent! We take the time to enjoy the scenery in these beautiful mountains at the start of the season.
The rest of the route won’t be easy. The ridge is still heavily snow-covered, with cornices in several places. We start following it for a few meters. The sun is beating down hard, and on the east-facing slope, the snow slides easily beneath our feet.
The conditions seem too complicated and dangerous for our climbing party: let’s turn back! Tristan and Alain welcome the decision—almost with relief. We head back down toward the Col du Pavé and treat ourselves to a delicious omelet made by Sophie before making our way down to the valley!
Day 4 — Râteau Ouest: Stop just below the summit
Today, on the fourth day, we’re taking the La Grave cable car to gain elevation easily, hoping to head to the Râteau Ouest. The day before, as we were turning back at the Maximin Gaspard Pass, some climbing parties were struggling on the Râteau. What suspense!
From the very first steps on the glacier, it feels good: no slush! The warm weather the day before packed the snow down nicely, and it’s frozen solid. Phew, no slush-treading today!
The route is in near-winter conditions. The first section is completely covered in snow. To avoid the warmed snow on the south face, we take a detour in the upper part of the route, staying along the ridge line. The climbing is a bit more difficult, but easily protected and on perfect rock.
We join the main trail above and follow it to the summit… Well, almost! A short ledge blocks the last 50 horizontal meters. We’re not going to tempt fate, especially since the view is the same from where we are!
A nice touch: the Râteau Ouest is one of the few routes in the southern Alps where you can stop for a drink at a bistro terrace right at the base of the route!
5 — Resting in the valley
Friday is a day off for Alain and Tristan, who are recharging their batteries down in the valley.
Day 6 — Hike to the Écrins Mountain Hut
On Saturday, we’ll head back up to the Écrins refuge to attempt the Barre the next day. The nice weather has settled in, and with it, great conditions! Most of the routes have been broken in, and the snow has refrozen nicely. It’s a godsend for us!
Day 7 — Barre des Écrins via the Coolidge Direct Route and Dôme des Écrins
Here we are on D-Day. A day of grace! Tristan and Alain are in top form, acclimated, and technically ready.
We’re among the first rope teams to set off toward La Barre. We’re climbing at a good pace between the seracs, on a snowpack that’s perfectly stable. Finally!
We reached the bergschrund just as the first rays of sunlight appeared. There was no one ahead of us, which was just as well: I don’t really like having rope teams above my head!
The conditions on the Coolidge route are just perfect: good footholds and hard snow for the ice axes. Two or three calf-stretching breaks later, we hug each other at the summit of La Barre.
The three of us are sharing these beautiful, moving moments. Not a breath of wind up there: we linger, we savor the moment. Tristan and Alain can hardly believe they’re actually here and are taking it all in as much as they can!
Once we've had our fill, we begin the descent via the standard route, which is still quite mixed: the most technical part of the day.
We then headed back up to the Dome, which, miraculously, was all to ourselves on such a crowded day.
The perfect day!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Pavé hut
- We meet Alain and Tristan at the Pavé hut, where Sophie is preparing for the season. We enjoy the setting and help with a few hut jobs.
Day 2 — Pic Nord des Cavales
- We climb the normal route, made trickier by snow and drizzle. Staying close to the ridge crest helps us avoid the snow before we return to the Pavé hut.
Day 3 — Brèche Maximin Gaspard and a turnaround
- We climb to Col du Pavé, then reach Brèche Maximin Gaspard on 45° snow slopes. Cornices and warming snow lead us to abandon the Meije Orientale traverse. We return to the Pavé hut, then descend to the valley.
Day 4 — West Râteau
- From the La Grave cable car, we climb a heavily snow-covered route and take a rocky variation along the ridge crest. We stop 50 m short of the summit because of a corniced section.
Day 5 — Rest in the valley
- Alain and Tristan recover before the final part of the trip.
Day 6 — Écrins hut
- We climb to the hut in increasingly favourable conditions, with a good overnight refreeze and established tracks.
Day 7 — Barre and Dôme des Écrins
- We climb the Barre via the Directe Coolidge in very good conditions. After savouring the summit together, we descend the still-mixed normal route, then climb back up to the Dôme des Écrins.
Client Testimonials (0)
No testimonials yet. Did you join this outing? Leave your review!
Write a review
Share your experience of this adventure. Access restricted to participants.
Want to experience this type of adventure?
Contact me to plan your custom high-mountain project.
Contact me