Three days of introductory mountaineering in the Écrins: Glacier Blanc, Pic d’Arsine and a retreat on Roche Faurio in surprisingly wintry June snow.
I meet up with Marion, Julien, Laurent and Nico for three days in the mountains: a thoroughly lovely bunch of friends! Conditions are quite unusual for the time of year, with 30 cm of recent snow lower down and 70 cm higher up. The Glacier Blanc is completely wrapped in a blanket of snow!
Day 1 — Ice skills beneath the snow
Our introductory mountaineering course in the Écrins begins with some digging: first we need to find the ice before learning the basics of crampon technique. It feels more like April!
We then venture cautiously onto the glacier. The recent snow hides the crevasses without guaranteeing that the snow bridges will hold, so we don’t push our luck.
Day 2 — Pic du Glacier d’Arsine and the ridge towards Pic du Glacier Blanc
This is our lucky day! Clouds surround us, but our little corner of the mountains enjoys its own patch of clear weather. Brilliant!
The tracks left by yesterday’s hardy parties are a great help. With nobody else around, we reach the summit of Pic du Glacier d’Arsine. The snow sparkles, cornices overhang the ridges and clouds dance around us. What a setting!
To make the most of it, we continue along the ridge between Pic d’Arsine and Pic du Glacier Blanc, enjoying some playful, exposed climbing before heading to the Refuge des Écrins for a rest.
Day 3 — Roche Faurio: knowing when to turn back
For our final day, we have to work with the weather. Ten centimetres of fresh snow fell overnight and the wind has erased the tracks.
Time for some serious trail-breaking towards Roche Faurio! The snow accumulations on the slopes are impressive, sometimes reaching our waists. Other rope teams catch up and take their turns breaking trail.
As the slope steepens, just before the ridge, we agree with the other teams to turn back because of the avalanche risk. Thoroughly wintry conditions for the middle of June!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Ice skills on the Glacier Blanc
- Digging through recent snow to find the ice, practising crampon technique and exploring a short section of glacier cautiously.
Day 2 — Pic du Glacier d’Arsine
- Ascent of Pic du Glacier d’Arsine, followed by the ridge towards Pic du Glacier Blanc and a night at the Refuge des Écrins.
Day 3 — Attempt on Roche Faurio
- Breaking trail through deep snow before agreeing with the other rope teams to turn back below the ridge because of the avalanche risk.
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