Four days learning independent mountaineering in the Écrins: from first knots to alpine traverses, with four motivated climbers and plenty of laughs!
Mathieu, Damien, Timo and Julien have asked me to help them become independent in the mountains, starting with relatively easy alpine routes. There's a lot to learn before you can realistically head into the mountains on your own, so we've got our work cut out for us!! Knots, roping up, crampon techniques, moving together on a rope, placing protection, building belays, glacier safety, route planning, risk assessment and human factors… This is no holiday for my four companions!!
Day 1 – First Steps Towards Independence on the Glacier Blanc
We hit it off straight away. This is going to be fun! To get things started, we head onto the Glacier Blanc for some ice training and a little exploration to understand how glaciers actually work. It's also an opportunity to learn the basics of roping up for glacier travel… At this stage, not a single member of the team knows how to tie into a rope. We're starting from scratch! On the other hand, after a few crampon exercises, everyone is already moving confidently on their crampons. Progress is quick!
Day 2 – Pointe Cézanne: Learning by Doing
There's no better way to learn than by doing things yourself! For our first practical climb, we set off on the traverse of Pointe Cézanne. The terrain is wonderfully varied: steep snow, an easy rocky ridge climbed in crampons, more snow slopes… Plenty of opportunities to practise using natural anchors and adjusting rope length. Things are still a little chaotic when it comes to roping up and tying knots. Mandatory revision session this afternoon! The weather is beautiful, and this early-season climb is a real treat!
On the way down, we return to the glacier for a glacier rescue workshop: crevasse hauling systems, building anchors with ice screws, snow anchors… Mostly an introduction for now. They'll need to master the basics before putting all this into practice properly!
Day 3 – Pic d'Arsine: Different Terrain, Different Techniques
For our second practical climb, my friend Tom takes over guiding duties for the day. We're heading for the Pic d'Arsine, another mountain offering a great variety of terrain, especially when climbed as a traverse: couloirs, easy mixed ground, ridges and steep slopes… Plenty of opportunities to adapt belaying techniques and practise reading the terrain.
Yesterday's revision is already paying off… There's considerably less confusion with the knots! After the climb, the four lads make their way up to join me at the Refuge des Écrins in the afternoon. Beer and Uno workshop for team bonding, followed by a little map-reading in the evening…
Day 4 – Roche Paillon – Émile Pic: The Rope Teams Take Charge
Final day. My four companions aren't quite sure what I've got in store for them today… Now that they've got the basics under their belts, I decide to raise the technical bar a little and suggest a beautiful, varied climb: the Roche Paillon – Émile Pic traverse.
Today, I let each rope team manage its own progression while I orbit around them like a free electron, offering advice as different situations arise.
In just four days, the guys have been transformed… They arrived unable to tie a single knot, and now they're managing their own ropes, movement and safety on a route that's already fairly demanding and impressive! The learning has really sunk in, and it's a pleasure to watch!
A brilliant opportunity to put everything into practice!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 – Ice Training on the Glacier Blanc
Discovering the glacier environment and learning the first essential skills for independent mountaineering: roping up, knots, crampon techniques and glacier travel.
Day 2 – Pointe Cézanne Traverse
Our first practical climb, focusing on roping up, using natural protection and moving safely through varied terrain. Back on the glacier for an introduction to crevasse rescue techniques.
Day 3 – Pic d’Arsine Traverse
A second practical climb across varied terrain: couloirs, easy mixed ground, ridges and steep slopes. An opportunity to improve belaying techniques and terrain assessment skills. Overnight at the Refuge des Écrins.
Day 4 – Roche Paillon – Émile Pic Traverse
A final, more technical climb where participants take responsibility for their own ropework, progression and safety under the guide’s supervision. A great opportunity to put everything they've learned into practice!
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