Three days learning mountaineering in the Écrins with Laurence and Christophe: Glacier Blanc, Pic d'Arsine and sunrise, with the mountains to ourselves.
An Introduction to Mountaineering in the Écrins: Almost Alone in the World
I’m delighted to be reunited with Laurence and Christophe, who are returning to the mountains they love so much. After their introduction to ski touring this winter, we’re moving on to explore mountaineering!
At the very start of the summer season, the mountains are still quite wild. By avoiding the weekend crowds and thanks to less-than-perfect weather conditions—on paper, at least!—we’re enjoying the Glacier Blanc area and the mountain huts in near-total solitude. Which is just fine by Laurence and Christophe!
Day 1 — Ice Climbing School on the Glacier Blanc
We’ll start with a short exploration of the Glacier Blanc. It’s a great way to get comfortable with crampons and check out a few off-the-beaten-path spots!
The weather is kind to us and spares us. Tonight, at the Glacier Blanc shelter, it’s chaos: there are at least seven of us, including three young people we’ll run into again over the next two days!
Day 2 — Crossing the Pic d’Arsine
For the second day, Météo-France is forecasting some unsettled weather starting in the morning… Fine. We’d just like to be above the rain-snow line when it starts!
Our plan for today is to cross Arsine Peak by ascending via the south couloir. Early in the morning, a storm has already hit—just as expected!!
We pulled off an almost perfect climb! Not a soul in the mountains, except for our three friends at the shelter, and the light was incredible with a few clouds dancing across our ridge. For that, I say: Long live the Écrins!
We spend the rest of the day relaxing at the Écrins mountain hut while it snows outside… As the day draws to a close, the wind picks up and clears away all the clouds.
The Écrins shelter is packed. At least twenty people! Unbelievable!
Day 3 — Sunrise over the Glacier Blanc Peak
For this last day, I suggest to Laurence and Christophe that we go watch the sunrise at Roche Faurio. But the wind, which is blowing quite strongly this morning—60 to 80 km/h, after all—makes me change my mind: we’re heading to the Pic du Glacier Blanc instead.
What a great spot for us! We're well sheltered by the surrounding peaks and perfectly timed for the sunrise!
We continue our ascent toward the peak, passing through a few short mixed-terrain sections that aren't too difficult but are great for honing your all-terrain skills!
On the ridge leading to Pic du Glacier Blanc
Thank you both again for those wonderful moments we shared in a spirit of trust and for your beautiful, sensitive, and humble approach to the mountains. See you soon!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Ice skills on Glacier Blanc
- Glacier exploration and introductory crampon exercises for Laurence and Christophe, followed by a quiet evening at the Glacier Blanc hut.
Day 2 — Traverse of Pic d’Arsine
- We climb the south couloir and traverse Pic d’Arsine amid shifting clouds and beautiful light. We then reach the Écrins hut and spend the afternoon there while snow falls outside.
Day 3 — Towards Pic du Glacier Blanc
- Strong winds prompt a change from Roche Faurio to Pic du Glacier Blanc. Sheltered by the surrounding peaks, we enjoy sunrise and continue learning on a few mixed sections.
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