With Martin and Rémy, we climb the Jocelme’s northeast couloir from the Bans hut. An expedition training climb takes an unexpected turn on the descent.
A good time of year to get into a couloir… on foot this time!
Martin wanted a fairly steep climb to prepare for his expedition two weeks later. Taking someone close to their limits is always a delicate call for a guide!
My friend Rémy joins us for the occasion and takes on the role of official photographer!
Day 1 — An evening at the Bans hut
A quiet evening at the Bans hut, where Stéph’s welcome and cooking are well worth the trip. He takes us completely by surprise when he pulls on his running kit and tells me I won’t have to go back down to the car for the missing helmet. He’s going to do it for fun! Class act… A four-star hut keeper!
Day 2 — Le Jocelme’s northeast couloir
The northeast couloir is in excellent condition despite the weak overnight refreeze. A few short stretches of deep snow on the approach, but most of the climbing is on old snow packed down by avalanche debris.
The slope gradually steepens to just over 50° in the final metres. Martin practises all his techniques and picks up a few new ones.
It takes a bit of energy. At the top of the couloir, we decide to head straight down, with the summit still some way off.
Unfortunately, a piece of mountain travelling at speed hits Martin on the forearm as we cross a short section exposed to rockfall. It doesn’t seem too bad at the time, but an X-ray later reveals a small fracture. Martin is able to finish the descent and get home, but he has to pull out of the expedition planned for two weeks later.
It’s an obvious and understandable disappointment for Martin… But new projects and plan Bs are already flying around. Who knows, perhaps one will be even better than plan A!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Bans hut
- We meet Stéph at the Bans hut. He runs down to fetch the helmet left in the car.
Day 2 — Le Jocelme’s northeast couloir
- Martin, Rémy and I climb the couloir to its exit, with the slope steepening to just over 50° in the final metres. We descend from the top of the couloir. A falling rock injures Martin’s forearm, putting paid to his expedition plans.
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