With Ève, Nico and Antoine, I return to the Aigle hut: Meije Orientale together, then the Doigt de Dieu with Antoine, combining ice, rock and cold wind.
It’s already my fifth season as a guide, and it’s a pleasure to see some “regulars” again! To mark the occasion, I’m bringing Antoine, Ève, and Nico together…
We're heading to the Aigle refuge in the Écrins, where everyone will find routes suited to their skill level!
A Night at the Aigle Shelter
Spending a night at L’Aigle is no easy feat: first, you have to tackle the 1,800-meter elevation gain, which includes a few climbing sections and a short glacier traverse… The upside is that the next day, the peaks seem right around the corner!
It’s already been three months since my last visit to L’Aigle on skis, and Laura still gives me a wonderful welcome—she’s swapped Louis for Claire! The charm of the place wouldn’t be the same without such attentive hosts!
The Eastern Meije for the whole team
Our first goal of the day is to climb the Meije Orientale. I’m roped up with Ève; Antoine is leading the other rope team with Nico. I’m in charge of helping everyone get up the first ice slope that leads to the ridge… The heat wave and drought are starting to take their toll at high altitudes!
Yet today, a biting north wind is making us shiver right down to our underwear and is buffeting us a bit along the ridge… So, we’re keeping busy! Just below the summit, sheltered by the summit dome, we manage to rest for a while… It’s a nice change from those long naps!
The Meije Orientale was Nico and Ève’s destination; they are now making their way back to the shelter at a leisurely pace.
"The Finger of God" with Antoine
With Antoine, my favorite Corsican—who’s always in great shape—we head straight for the Doigt de Dieu. On the slope above the bergschrund, which is more ice than snow, Antoine is glad he brought his second ice axe!
The IV-rated rock pitch is just a formality for Antoine—who still nearly lost a finger on it! At the Doigt de Dieu, that would have been a real bummer…
The wind has died down, and we’re taking a moment to enjoy this overlook, which is just shy of 4,000 meters…
Back at the lodge, where Laura and Claire treat us to their hearty crêpes...
What you need to get yourself in the right mindset before a slightly long descent!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Ascent to the Aigle hut
- With Ève, Nico and Antoine, we reach the Aigle hut after 1,800 metres of ascent, a few climbing sections and a glacier crossing. Laura and Claire welcome us to this hut perched close to the summits.
Day 2 — Meije Orientale, then the Doigt de Dieu with Antoine
- We climb Meije Orientale in two rope teams, tackling an initial ice slope and a bitter northerly wind on the ridge. Ève and Nico then return to the hut, while Antoine and I continue to the Doigt de Dieu: an icy slope where a second axe comes in handy, followed by a grade IV rock pitch. After crêpes at the hut, the whole team descends to the valley.
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