Three days building mountaineering skills in the Écrins: crampons on Glacier Blanc, moving together on Pic d’Arsine and two rope teams on Roche Faurio.
A course with a lovely French-Basque crew: Oisin, Flore and Raphaël, Orti, Immanol and Pierre-Emmanuel. Some are here for their first taste of mountaineering, others to learn the basics of climbing independently. I will take everyone’s goals into account!
J1 — Crampon technique and route choice on Glacier Blanc
The glacier session gives us a chance to learn or brush up on basic crampon technique. Soon everyone is scampering around this world of ice, and we set off to tackle the ice ribs.
Two rope teams make their own decisions, with the guide moving freely between them. Taking chest coils, placing ice screws, adjusting rope spacing and choosing a line through the glacier… Plenty to learn by doing.
A good warm-up, followed by the traditional drink and dinner on the Glacier Blanc hut terrace!
J2 — Moving together on Pic d’Arsine
We head for Pic d’Arsine to look at the basics of protecting a rope team while moving on snow slopes and rocky ridges. Both teams practise their ropework in good spirits.
The short ridge between the summit and the Col du Glacier Blanc is fun and a good place to learn without getting too intimidated.
We then head to the Écrins hut. A few self-rescue exercises before the pasta carbonara and beer… Another area where it pays to be independent!
J3 — Two rope teams on Roche Faurio
We choose Roche Faurio as a place for the two teams to practise climbing independently. That day it gives us useful terrain and a quieter setting than the Dôme.
Orti crosses the bergschrund.
Thanks to our timing, we are already high up when the sun comes out. What a sight!
This route is wonderfully photogenic. Luckily, a wrong setting on my camera takes the edge off the photos!
At the fore-summit of Roche Faurio, at the foot of the summit ridge, some of the group decide to stop and enjoy the sunshine. Meanwhile, I go with the others to climb that very airy little stretch of rock. The rope team continues to manage its own progress.
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Glacier skills on Glacier Blanc
- Crampon technique, placing ice screws and choosing a line through the glacier as the two rope teams find their feet.
J2 — Pic d’Arsine and the Écrins hut
- Practising how to protect a moving rope team on snow and rock, followed by self-rescue exercises at the Écrins hut.
J3 — Roche Faurio
- Putting glacier skills into practice. Some of the group stop at the fore-summit, while the others continue along the summit ridge.
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