With Frank, the Contamine route on L’Évêque helps us find our rhythm: granite, route-finding and growing trust before heading for the Drus traverse.
A dream summer! Fine weather windows keep coming one after another.
Just as well: I am meeting Frank in Chamonix, capital of the badly timed weather window!
There has still been quite a bit of fresh snow in the preceding days, so we change our plans at the last minute. We head to the Charpoua–Couvercle area for two fine climbs: the Contamine route on L’Évêque, followed by the Drus traverse.
Since we are not devotees of relentless toil, we spread everything “leisurely” over four days, including a transition day between the Couvercle and Charpoua huts. Luckily, that turns out to be the only day of mediocre weather!
The first climb is an excellent way to get acquainted and settle into our partnership before more committing objectives.
Frank already has considerable experience in high — and very high! — mountains, including independent climbing. I am not particularly worried, but getting to know each other matters: building the bond and trust essential to shared mountain projects.
The route almost becomes secondary when you have the right companion!
Everything flows on this warm-up. We find our rhythm: efficient without trying to race, which is not why we are here. We genuinely enjoy the climb.
The Contamine route is already a substantial undertaking because of its length. In my notes from this 2013 outing, I allow around eight hours for the average team.
Much of the difficulty can be avoided by staying on the true right of the Nonne–Évêque couloir, though that takes you well away from the route’s character.
One section of the ridge crest is nevertheless difficult and is bypassed on the right. The question is knowing when to leave the crest… and when to rejoin it!
We try returning a little too early. We do not stay long: the climbing quickly approaches upper grade VI!
Another detour, then back onto the crest higher up, at the crux: a thin crack graded V+, with two pegs in place when we visited. Time to concentrate!
For the final bastion, we put the guidebook away and follow our instincts on the Charpoua side, climbing a chimney and then a fine corner. Apparently a variation on the classic line, which stays more on the south side.
We descend by the abseils leading directly to the Nonne–Évêque notch. We had a 60 m rope; 50 m would have felt short on the line we followed!
Our rack included four or five slings, the same number of quickdraws, Camalots from 0.2 to 3 and, optionally, two or three medium nuts for the crux.
Those are the notes from our visit — and, above all, a climbing partnership nicely set up for what comes next!
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