Three days ski touring in the Cerces with a cheerful crew: the Clarée valley, Laval and Chardonnet huts, kick turns and lovely descents on spring snow.
This morning, when I met up with the group Philippe had put together for three days, no one really knew what to expect—myself included! My six companions only have vague snippets of the itinerary; the rest is still a complete mystery as we set off! Maybe it’s better that way, actually!
On the agenda for these three days: no agenda! Just two reserved mountain huts around which we’ll try to piece together something that might be called a ski tour! We’ll be carving our way through the Clarée Valley—a sure bet where great skiing goes hand in hand with cozy mountain huts!
Day 1: Getting to know the guide bumps and the lighting at your feet!
Getting together, gathering all the items we’ll need for our three days, stuffing everything into a bag, repacking the bag… That alone keeps us busy all morning! It’s 1:00 p.m. when our group sets off on the Haute Clarée trail… a 4-kilometer warm-up on a gently sloping incline—enough to get everyone in the swing of things!
We've only gone 4 km, and already we've got quite a collection of blisters—each one more unique than the last!
Now we’re really heading up toward Ricou. Our goal for the day is the Laval mountain hut. We keep crossing. The group quickly realizes that the guide’s sense of time is pretty flexible and that phrases like “we’ll climb a little more,” “just one more little hill,” and “about a quarter of an hour” shouldn’t be taken literally!
The relief finally comes at the top of one of the many bumps, which serves as a great launch pad for the Laval refuge. Gravity is finally on our side again (well, almost)! Thanks to our particularly early start, we get to enjoy snow that’s perfectly over-transformed—just like our thighs!
Fortunately, the safe haven isn't far away!
Day 2: Up—Down—Up
Thanks to our cozy forward base camp, we’re setting out today on a schedule that’s much better suited to backcountry skiing than to water skiing!
The climb up to the Moutouze ridge goes smoothly, and I can tell the team is performing at its best. Everyone takes the opportunity to refine their climbing style, and we reach Lac des Beraudes without a hitch. Just one or two more “little steep sections,” and we’re in a good position.
The scenery is breathtaking in this valley nestled at the foot of impressive cliffs!
The descent begins cautiously on a slope still covered in cold snow.
Then you end up with oceans of carpet that you didn't steal! There's plenty of room—all that effort has to be good for something!
Great skiing in fun terrain. We'd love to go back up again, but we're expected for lunch at the Refuge de Laval!
We're going to have to get through a little feast on the patio and a nap in the sun, one after the other. Fortunately, the group sticks together through these tough times and faces them as one.
After those tough moments, relief at last: we’re off again! I feel a surge of intense motivation at the thought of this fresh start! What a joy to stretch my legs a bit after eating.
The Chardonnet shelter will be our stop for the night. Once again, a warm welcome and a perfect atmosphere!
Day 3: Tour of Queyrellin
Since we have to find something to do before eating (!), we might as well ski around a little hill—after all, we have skis!
A wonderful tour awaits us today, with a touch of emotion on the agenda!
A leisurely start through the beautiful valleys at the foot of Queyrellin.
Today’s short, steep climb will be a great opportunity to work on our conversions. I can feel the tension rising a bit in the group as we gain elevation on this slope at La Casse Blanche.
Once again, the group discovered that the guide's directions are sometimes very vague! "Just one or two more turns"! The very last turn finally came just in time! Some of us were on the verge of a nervous breakdown!
We're being hot on the heels by another group of climbers. As friendly as they may be, we'd rather be the first to tackle this descent!
I'm feeling the effects of the past few days a little in my thighs, but the skiing is so great!
We skied in a postcard!
Robbery committed by a disorganized gang...
Cyril is back to a more fluid style!
Close on Philippe's heels
Skiing that’s as smooth as can be on a carpet worthy of the finest luxury hotels!
A nice little detour that keeps us from arriving at the inn too early! Now that we’re finally in a safe place, we’re enjoying the moment without thinking too much about what lies ahead! Some of us seem to be feeling the effects of the high altitude a bit!!
A few strokes of the oars later, we all arrived in Névache—not quite in the same condition as when we set out!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Upper Clarée and the Laval hut
- We follow the upper Clarée road, climb towards Ricou and traverse the rolling terrain around Planiaud. A first day to find our rhythm, discover the guide’s “little bumps” and reach the Laval hut.
Day 2 — Moutouze circuit and the Chardonnet hut
- We climb towards the Moutouze ridge and Lac des Béraudes, then descend on a mixture of cold snow and spring corn. After lunch and a nap at the Laval hut, we set off again towards the Chardonnet hut.
Day 3 — Queyrellin circuit and return to Névache
- We climb via the Casse Blanche with a few memorable kick turns, then descend through the lovely valleys of the Queyrellin circuit. A stop at La Fruitière inn rounds off the trip before we return to Névache.
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