Three days learning mountaineering with Jelle, Pim and Alexis in the Écrins: climbing, rope skills and glacier travel, with weather calling the shots!
The weather was anything but cooperative during these three days with Jelle, Pim, and Alexis… Right from the start, we were in “Plan B” mode!! Given the thunderstorms forecast for this afternoon and tomorrow, instead of meeting up at the Glacier Blanc shelter, I suggest to my companions that we stay in the valley at a climbing site for a quick session of technique practice, sheltered from the rain… And who knows, maybe even a little climbing!
Chanteloube: Climbing and practice moves between rain showers
So we find ourselves in the Chanteloube parking lot, where a good downpour greets us as it should! The area has some significant advantages given today’s unpredictable weather: a short approach and a large overhang that shelters the base of the cliff and allows for rope work. And right next door is a beginner’s area where you can climb routes ranging from III to 6b, with some really interesting routes for those wearing heavy climbing shoes.
We start with a few rope-tying exercises… And suddenly, the rain stops! Without a moment’s hesitation, we jump at the chance to climb a few pitches. Pim and Jelle are complete beginners and are experiencing their first taste of big-move climbing on slightly damp rock! What a pair! Alexis is a little more experienced, but doesn’t really have any experience climbing in mountaineering boots… A few moments later, there he is top-roping a 5b route!
We wrapped up the afternoon with a few rope workshops and hands-on exercises: placing nuts, setting up belay stations, and rappelling… All in all, it was quite an intense afternoon!
Éperon Bouchier: We're not giving up!
Day 2: We’re not giving up! The forecast calls for rain and a chance of thunderstorms starting at 11 a.m. So we set our alarm early this morning to head to the Bouchier Spur. When we woke up, the weather was gorgeous!! Long live the Hautes-Alpes!
We’re not resting on our laurels, though. Watching everyone climb yesterday helped me come up with goals tailored to each person for today! Pim and Jelle will have the “simple” goal of climbing their first multi-pitch route as second climbers. As for Alexis, he’ll lead a rope team, place a few nuts, and set up his belay stations…
The Bouchier Spur is perfect for this kind of climb, with plenty of natural anchors, comfortable belay stations, and even pre-placed anchors to put your mind at ease! The first five pitches go off without a hitch, even though, of course, with four of us, it all takes a little longer…
As I finished the sixth pitch, I suddenly noticed that the sky over Vallouise had turned an ominous black. Moments later, the first flashes of lightning lit up the sky and the first raindrops began to fall… A cool breeze instantly began to blow… There was no doubt about it—a thunderstorm was heading our way!!
Everyone joins me at the belay station, and we switch to a single-rope team. We just have one short, steep section left, then the easier pitches at the top! We power through it all at a brisk pace, with a spectacular light and sound show all around us… Amid the chaos, I take care to belay everyone securely all the way to the top: the easy slabs at the exit are now treacherous ice rinks!
Despite a few lightning strikes very close to us, we managed to avoid the heavy downpour, which started just as we got back to the car! Great timing!
With that first stormy spell behind them, Pim, Jelle, and Alexis took advantage of a break in the weather to make their way up to the Glacier Blanc shelter in dry conditions, where I’ll meet up with them later this afternoon.
Pic d’Arsine and Exploration of the Glacier Blanc
Day 3: When we woke up at 4 a.m. this morning, the sky was full of stars. We set off toward Pic d’Arsine. The clouds gradually caught up with us, and 120 meters below the summit, we couldn’t see a thing—just white!
We began climbing the final slope, but the rotten snowpack and the layer of fresh snow on top—which were not only difficult to break trail through but also didn’t inspire much confidence in me… Add to that the prospect of absolutely no visibility: I decided it was best to turn back.
We quickly descend onto the glacier, where visibility is much better. Since we still have a little time before the forecast bad weather hits, we set out for a short tour of the glacier. Rope teaming and keeping the rope taut really come into their own when you’re exploring a crevasse!
We follow the glacier downhill to the ice school, where we use a rappel to descend a steeper section. We explore one last crevasse before heading back to the Glacier Blanc refuge for the traditional mountaineer’s feast!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Chanteloube: climbing and rope skills
- Meet in the valley and work around the showers. Climbing in mountain boots, tying in, placing protection, building belays and ascending a rope: plenty to learn with Plan B!
Day 2 — Éperon Bouchier
- Pim and Jelle follow their first multi-pitch route, while Alexis practises leading, placing protection and building belays. A thunderstorm arrives on the final pitches, requiring a brisk finish and care on the wet slabs. Then a dry spell allows the walk up to the Glacier Blanc hut.
Day 3 — Pic d’Arsine and Glacier Blanc
- Set off at 4 a.m. towards Pic d’Arsine, then turn back around 120 metres below the summit because of poor visibility and unpromising snow. Continue on the Glacier Blanc with roped travel, crevasse exploration and an abseil, before a hearty meal at the hut.
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