With Hadrien and Virgile, a first taste of rocky ridges in the Écrins: the Molinatti route, Pic du Glacier Blanc’s south ridge and twists along the way!
Once again, with Hadrien and Virgile, the programme is full of twists! We make the most of the first two days to get straight into the thick of it!
The Marcel Molinatti route: not bad for a start!
On the first day, we head towards Pointe Étienne, initially planning to climb PDB, the easiest route on the face… We start on the first two pitches of the Molinatti route. I can see my companions are doing well. Their indoor climbing experience gives them a few tools to work things out here, although climbing real rock in mountain boots, in the middle of a postcard scene and with a backpack, is obviously a rather different exercise.
I decide to stay on the Marcel Molinatti route for the next three pitches… Proper climbing! Sustained grade IV with two slightly overhanging grade V moves, but always good holds! Still enough to get the lactic acid building in our forearms!
Let’s celebrate the creation of two new variations high on the face today: Hadrien’s Superdirect and Virgile’s Shortcut! Above that, all that’s left is to move together on a taut rope to the summit… Not bad for a start!
One abseil and a long slide later, we’re sitting down to a good bowl of soup, just in time!
South ridge of the Pic du Glacier Blanc: action from the start
Day two: a perfect weather window. Clouds and wind have taken the day off, while the sun gives it everything from morning to evening.
I suggest a fairly ambitious route for their first steps in the mountains: the south ridge of the Pic du Glacier Blanc. What I saw yesterday gives me confidence, even though the terrain is a little different… In any case, we have a long day ahead!
The altitude gives Hadrien a bit of a rough time on the approach this morning… Any doubts at the start fade once we get moving. And there’s plenty of action right from the beginning of this ridge. The first two pitches are the crux of the route… After that, things flow much more easily. The climbing is less difficult, but the terrain still demands attention, especially when moving together on a taut rope!
We stop briefly on a terrace with a view before setting off again… The closer we get to the first notch, the closer we get to the crest of the ridge, until we’re right on it!
A little moment of excitement at the notch! I lower my companions into this austere, snow-filled spot… For a brief moment, they have to leave the comfort of the rope (and the guide!) and face being alone, with half a backside perched between rock and snow! Another steep section to climb, then another abseil into a notch that’s a little more welcoming than the last!!
The summit is already beckoning, but we need to stay focused. A few more efforts and acrobatics, and we collapse on the summit of the Pic du Glacier Blanc for a well-earned break!
The first part of the descent still requires plenty of care, then everything speeds up: off come the rope and harness, and away we go! A 500-metre slide brings us onto the glacier in just a few minutes! Early season really does have its perks!
Last day: rope skills under shelter
After these two days, Hadrien and Virgile are delighted… Tomorrow’s forecast looks decidedly mediocre. We still hope to get out onto the glacier, but without putting ourselves under any pressure!
In the morning, it’s raining! At every lull, climbers reach for their boots, ready to seize the weather window, but by the time their laces are tied, it’s raining again!
We finally give up on the glacier and, after practising a few rope techniques in the warmth, call it a day for this trip!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Marcel Molinatti route
- A first day on rock with Hadrien and Virgile. The initial PDB plan evolves into the Marcel Molinatti route: sustained grade IV climbing, two grade V passages and moving together on a taut rope to the summit. An abseil and a long slide get us back in time for soup!
Day 2 — South ridge of the Pic du Glacier Blanc
- Perfect weather for an ambitious first ridge climb: demanding opening pitches, climbing along the crest, notches and abseils. A summit break on the Pic du Glacier Blanc, followed by a careful descent and a 500-metre slide to the glacier.
Day 3 — Rope skills under shelter
- Rain puts an end to our plans for a glacier outing. We finish with rope practice in the warmth, after two days that have already given us plenty of memories… and a thorough forearm workout!
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