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February 22, 2019

Trip report : introduction to Ski Touring – 3 Days

From Wallonia to the Écrins, Yves and Christelle take the plunge! Three days discovering ski touring, learning the basics and, above all, dreaming of adventures further afield.

Yves and Christelle on the summit of La Blanche during their ski touring introduction

Yves and Christelle had been dreaming about it for some time, and they finally took the leap that stood between them and their dream! In this case, that leap took the form of an 8-hour drive from Wallonia to the south of the Alps.

Yves and Christelle are approaching this adventure just like the true nomads they are! They aren’t too worried about the itinerary—they have complete confidence in me to figure it out as we go! It’s a real privilege to be able to approach ski touring this way—in the freest way possible!

The plan for these three days with my two new adventure companions is to give them the basics they need for a more independent future in this activity<... to help them realize what they can do, what they want to do in the mountains, how to do it, and all the things they need to learn before they can be fully self-sufficient!

Over the course of these three days of ski touring, we’ll cover—among other topics, some serious and some less so—all the issues related to ski touring: snow science, risk management, decision-making and decision-making frameworks, group management, route selection, avalanche transceiver search and rescue, human psychology, and more... In short, it’s a broad topic!

Day 1: Tête de Paneyron, west face

For this first day of exploration—to get started without any time or technical pressure—I suggest to Yves and Christelle a ski tour above the Col de Vars, on the western slopes of the Tête de Paneyron... This gives us plenty of time to climb at a leisurely pace even with a late start, and the slopes—all under 30°—will let me gauge their skiing ability on the descent as we plan the rest of the trip!

After climbing 700 meters, we stop at a grassy spot that’s perfect for a snack and a nap. We’re really here! Yves and Christelle are savoring these moments in the mountains—which are far too rare for their liking!

We spend quite a while up there gazing at the view, putting the world to rights, and napping while we wait for the snow to be just right!

Day 2: La Blanche

This classic, must-do hike in the Ecrins starts at the Pelvoux resort! The chairlift takes us up to a higher elevation—then all we have to do is make our way to the summit!

To enjoy the beauty of the route, we’ll take the Chastellet ridge. We’ll quickly get down to business with a section featuring about ten technical moves before reaching the cross. What a great warm-up!

Fortunately, beyond the field, the terrain becomes softer again, and we can look up once more to enjoy the scenery... the Pelvoux gradually comes into view behind the Bel Serre ridge; as we climb, the view becomes more and more breathtaking

Today, the promise of an incredible view keeps everyone going all the way to the summit! After clearing the last little obstacle with a few turns using our crampons, we reach the summit plateau, where a 360° view that’ll make your neck ache awaits us...

The beauty of the mountains and the emotions they stir within us sometimes bring tears of joy to our eyes... moments of grace...

Since we don't feel like coming down from up here just yet, I'm taking this opportunity to lead a short avalanche transceiver search drill and introduce Yves and Christelle to the various challenges of avalanche rescue. Not a bad classroom!

Découverte ski de rando - La Blanche - Recherche DVA

The sun is starting to set in earnest; it's time for us to head back down to the valley for a well-deserved beer!

Day 3: Tête des Lauzières

Our last day. We’re heading toward the Tête des Raisins, without a set plan—as is often the case! This is also an important lesson I try to pass on to Yves and Christelle: don’t get bogged down in overly rigid plans and race preparations; incorporate flexibility right from the start and at every level, and leave room for possibilities; don’t fixate on a single goal; don’t put on too many mental blinders; and above all, stay attuned to what’s happening around you—in the mountains and within the group!

We’re leaving the green meadows of Freissinières, where spring is already in full swing. Despite the unbearable heat of the past few days, it’s still possible to put on your boots right from the parking lot.

After a 500-meter climb, we turn toward the Tête des Lauzières. I think the skiing will be better there, and it’ll reduce the elevation gain for some of us whose legs are starting to feel it a bit!

We reach the beautiful ridge leading to the Tête des Lauzières... We leave Christelle behind for a little while—she’d rather save her energy for the descent—and Yves and I continue on to the Tête des Lauzières, 200 meters higher. A sweeping view and a soft, carpet-like slope await us before we rejoin Christelle

For a change of scenery, I suggest a route on the north-facing slope where, after a short stretch of open terrain, we’ll find a larch forest still covered in powder snow before reaching the Col d’Anon, from where we can take it easy on the road, which holds snow much better than the surrounding slopes!

The end of a 3-day adventure—but it's just the beginning!

Practical Info / Route Topo

Day 1 – Tête de Paneyron

  • Our first day starts from col de Vars, on the western slopes of Tête de Paneyron. A gentle ski tour with around 700 m of ascent to discover the activity, find our feet and enjoy a lovely descent on spring snow.

Day 2 – La Blanche from Pelvoux

  • From the top of the Pelvoux ski area, we climb along the Chastellet ridge before continuing to La Blanche. A lovely day facing the Écrins peaks, with avalanche transceiver search practice at the summit.

Day 3 – Tête des Lauzières

  • We set off from Freissinières towards Tête des Raisins, then change plans and head to Tête des Lauzières. A descent on spring snow, followed by a switch to the north-facing slopes for powder turns in the larch forest before reaching col d’Anon.
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