Ski touring in the Ubaye with the Génépi Team: three days around Fouillouse, exploring Eyssilloun, Couletta and Sauvagea, with powder and plans adapted to the weather.
After our first day in Sainte Anne, the plan was to spend two nights with Odilon and Inès at the Gîte de Fouillouse, a very cozy place deep in the Ubaye Valley... Ultimately, as the weather forecast became more precise, I saw our hopes of heading over to the Val Maira next gradually crumble... aside from the fact that the last easterly storm had already thoroughly drenched our friends in Piedmont, a new, very active storm system is forecast for the end of the week. While heading to Italy seems feasible, returning via the mountains strikes me as completely unrealistic—and certainly not at all reasonable… and since the Col de Larche is closed, Plan B is a 6-hour taxi ride. So we’ll have to rethink our plans. The conditions are clearly not ideal for a road trip. Never mind—we’ll just explore the Ubaye Valley!
The disappointment was short-lived for my companions, who were looking forward to seeing for themselves what all the fuss was about regarding the inns in Val Maira. Tor, Karl, and Eddi trust me completely, and I have free rein to make the best of the conditions, with absolutely no pressure!
So we’ll end up spending three nights in Fouillouse, a true mecca for skiing in the Ubayen region, with direct access to the slopes from the lodge and a wide variety of ski-touring options.
In the foothills of the Eyssilloun
Given the bitterly cold weather we’re experiencing right now, we decide to set out late. The sun quickly warms the air, and by the time we leave, the morning’s -20°C is already a distant memory. We’re heading toward the Col de Mirandol to do some embroidery over there.
We turn off as soon as we see the first slopes of Eyssilloun. Fatigue is really setting in among the Génépi team after climbing 600 meters in elevation. That’s just as well—the slope is getting a little too steep for my liking, and I’m starting to have some concerns about the snow conditions.
As is often the case with my Norvish skis, a dream run in the powder—you can't change old habits!
Tour of the Replat des Génisses
A slightly more ambitious hike today, still starting from the lodge. We head deep into the Fouillouse valley, then find ourselves in complete solitude as we make our way toward the Pas de la Couletta. A 900-meter climb in elevation and a bit of a long hike—it’s well worth the effort! With the Brec du Chambeyron towering overhead, the atmosphere is simply magnificent… Weather-wise, though, we’ve had better. We quickly polish off our snack.
A stunning first run from the Col de la Couletta to the Chambeyron refuge, with just the right amount of visibility to make it a blast...
To continue the descent, you have to climb back up a bit to get past Lake Chambeyron. My friends politely point out that I’m perfectly entitled to spare them this kind of torture! Fortunately, it’ll be worth the effort, and we’ll be rewarded with a magical descent down the “banana”—nothing like La Grave!
Not by Sauvagea, but not quite
The message got through: today, no unnecessary detours or tedious climbs. We head straight up the steep slope above the refuge toward the Pas de la Sauvagea. The climb feels much easier than the day before, but we’re still feeling the aftereffects, so we stop about 300 meters from the Pas. In any case, the whiteout that’s gradually setting in doesn’t really encourage us to keep going… we might as well head down while we still have visibility!
Despite the flat light, we’re once again enjoying 5-star skiing—you just have to stay relaxed to absorb the terrain changes that pop up at the last moment! Further down, the trees give us good landmarks again, and it’s absolutely amazing!
This whiteout we’re expecting is actually the leading edge of a forecast storm that’s predicted to be active—and it will indeed be even more intense than forecast... For the two days we have left together—given the amount of snow forecast, the poor visibility, and the wind—I suggest to my Genépi team that we head back to the resort.
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