Three days in the Écrins with Mathieu and the team, building mountaineering skills on glaciers and rocky ridges before their first independent ascents.
After their first self-guided training session last year, Mathieu, Damien, and Julien are back to take their high-mountain rock climbing skills to the next level. For this outing, Maxime—with whom we’ve already enjoyed some great climbs—is joining us.
For these three days of Advanced mountaineering training in the Écrins, no feats on the agenda—or maybe there are!—but plenty to learn on runs that lend themselves well to independent exploration.
I move freely between my two rope teams to offer advice and make any necessary adjustments. Given the current heat and dry conditions, the course will focus primarily on rock climbing. That doesn’t stop us from spending a few hours on the glacier to review crampon use, snow arrest, and the basics of glacier safety.
After this course, all the participants will go on some great hikes on their own—like the Dôme des Écrins or the Albaron in the Vanoise. Cool!
I'll let Mathieu tell the story of those three days.
Day 1 — Reunions and review sessions on the glacier
"Here we are again in this particularly hot month of June with 'the legend,' Nico. Some people say they've seen him fly… Editor's note: I think when it comes to flying, I'm far from being the best at it!"
After our first training course last year and a few independent adventures, we want to learn more and build on what we’ve already learned: to feel truly comfortable on the routes we choose, and to improve our fluidity and safety.
Fresh off the bus from our native Southwest, we arrive at the Glacier Blanc refuge at noon. There we meet Max, the fourth member of our group, who joins us so we can practice climbing in pairs.
It’s 1:00 p.m., and the sun is at its highest point. After applying sunscreen, we strap on our crampons at the base of the glacier and review the various cramponing techniques. Feeling increasingly confident, we tackle steeper slopes, where we place ice screws for protection and make a top-rope descent to get a feel for it.
Next up is a snow safety course: falling on your stomach, on your back, headfirst, or feet-first, and techniques for breaking your fall. The first day is coming to an end. The beer at the mountain hut will be great!
Day 2 — Rope work and PDB route at Pointe Estienne
After a good night’s sleep—and even a lie-in, since the lack of snow meant we didn’t have to leave too early—a rock climb awaited us. We set out at 7 a.m., making a quick detour to the glacier to learn, with a clear head, the technique of using a pulley system. The goal: to be able to set up a rescue in the event of a crevasse fall.
In pairs, we switch roles: one in the “crevasse,” the other at the helm, under the watchful eye of the guide, who offers advice and corrects us throughout the exercise.
After our morning practice session, we headed to Pointe Estienne, a beautiful pyramid-shaped peak overlooking the Glacier Blanc. We tackled the PDB route, rated AD—a rating we weren’t familiar with!
Nico teaches us how to stay safe, set Camalots, use cams, set up secure belay stations, and secure ourselves. All while climbing big routes, of course! He moves freely among us, always ready to offer advice.
We adapt our belaying technique to the terrain: climbing pitches, moving with a taut rope, varying the rope length… It’s just as much a feast for the mind as it is for the eyes!
On the way, we climbed this beautiful, almost unknown pyramid, where the atmosphere was just as impressive. From the summit, we rappelled down, managing the maneuvers ourselves. A wonderful day, full of learning experiences!
Day 3 — South Ridge of Pic du Glacier d’Arsine
A new moon passes over the mountain hut, and at 6 a.m. we’re off again for the south ridge of Pic du Glacier d’Arsine. It’s a route that few people take, and we have very little information about it.
A little more difficult and more exposed than the one from the day before, this route isn't bolted. That makes it all the more interesting: we have to handle everything from start to finish.
Nico's teaching style really suits us: we're constantly learning while having fun. He's passionate about his work and tailors his approach to each person's goals, all in a relaxed atmosphere!
Delighted by these past few days and feeling more confident than when we arrived—and than we did a year ago!—we say goodbye to Max and Nico halfway down the descent. The three of us have decided to set out on our own to climb the Dôme de Neige des Écrins.
On Wednesday morning, we set out and successfully climbed our first 4,000-meter peak!
"Meanwhile, Maxime is joining up with a friend in the Vanoise to climb the Albaron. On their own, of course!"
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Refreshing skills on the Glacier Blanc
- Meet at the Glacier Blanc hut, then revisit crampon technique, ice screw use and snow self-arrest.
Day 2 — Crevasse rescue and Pointe Estienne
- Practise crevasse rescue before climbing the PDB route on Pointe Estienne, working on protection, belays, rope techniques and abseiling.
Day 3 — South ridge of the Pic du Glacier d’Arsine
- Put the learning into practice on a more exposed alpine rock route without fixed protection, managing the climb in two-person rope teams.
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