Introduction to Multi-Pitch Climbing - Biaysse Gorges

Hippo and Bennett are giving me free rein for their trip to the Hautes-Alpes. Since they’re both into climbing and both climb regularly indoors, I’m suggesting they spend a day trying out multi-pitch climbing. While they’re familiar with climbing techniques, they’ve done very little outdoor climbing so far. So there’s a whole new world for them to explore!

Anticipating the holds, getting a feel for the route, choosing your moves, placing your feet just right, watching the void grow deeper, transitioning from a slab pitch to overhangs without a break.

During these heat waves, climbing in the shade and cool air is essential if you don’t want to end up as a two-dimensional imprint on the rock. The Gorges de la Biaysse, just a stone’s throw from Guillestre and Briançon, are the perfect spot for these kinds of conditions. Sure, it’s not exactly a paradise, but shade is guaranteed for much of the day, and breezes pleasantly cool the cliff as soon as the heat sets in.

Long before I became a mountain guide, I’ve always loved “multi-pitch routes.” A multi-pitch route is a journey of varying length up a cliff face. We cast off the comforts of the ground and surrender ourselves to the beauty of a line envisioned by a route-setter or one we create ourselves. Guiding multi-pitch routes has naturally become an activity I’m very passionate about as a guide—and one that brings a lot of joy to the climbers I lead!

Deep Gorge (100 m, elevation gain, max 5c+): a must for beginners

When we start the day, I haven't really decided on a plan yet. To get to know each other at a leisurely pace, I suggest to Benett and Hippo that we climb the easiest route in the area first—it's short, varied, and pretty. What else?

We get our little climbing rhythm down—communication on the multi-pitch route, rope handling, belaying, and optimizing the belay stations. Benett and Hippo just have to focus on the climbing and enjoy their first multi-pitch route. Four 25-meter pitches, all different, none harder than 5c+. It went off without a hitch; my two climbing partners gave the activity a thumbs-up, and we set off for a second round.

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Les Hirondelles (120 m, TD-, 6a+ max)

And here we are, caught in the trap of “always more”! This route takes things up a notch compared to the first one. The second pitch already requires some clever moves that have little to do with climbing on resin. It’s a crack where you have to know how to use jams and position yourself strategically to exert as little force as possible. And a little traversing finish to spice things up. The last pitch is exceptional—a traverse beneath overhangs with 100 meters of free climbing under our climbing shoes. The route already demands more effort, but my two companions are raring to go for a third round!

The Route at Bada (120 m, elevation gain, 6a)

We don't want to go overboard, so for the last route of the day, we scale back a bit. The route at Bada—the one farthest to the right on the cliff—offers some truly beautiful slab climbing and an airy 5c finish with stunning water drops.

After those three laps, our water supplies are gone and our arms are tired from that nearly 350-meter climb—not bad at all for a first try!

Let's head to the river to cool down the water in the pools to 15 degrees at the Biaysse!