With Cédric and Jacob, two days of ice climbing: Fracastorus in Freissinières, then Les Formes du Chaos in Ceillac during an unexpected weather window.
Cédric is back this year to tackle the local icefalls again. This time, Jacob joins him. Our first day brings perfect weather in Freissinières, while the second takes us to Ceillac for a commando-style mission between the showers… Two beautiful icefalls in very different styles.
Fracastorus in Freissinières
Springlike conditions for our first day in the Freissinières valley. Cédric and I already spent a day ice climbing at the Parc de la Schappe last year. Jacob is a complete beginner, but, without making a fuss about it, he doesn’t seem easily intimidated.
Today’s objective is Fracastorus, a beautiful icefall at the entrance to the Freissinières valley, roughly 180 metres high and very approachable. A Spanish rope team is ahead of us; otherwise, it’s quiet! Everything goes wonderfully, despite my accidental attempt on Cédric’s life! Both lads are cruising! Cédric takes the opportunity to climb a slightly more technical pitch near the top… It’s certainly pleasant to enjoy ice climbing in such mild weather!
A beer-fuelled debrief at the Dormilhosa. Tomorrow’s forecast isn’t particularly exciting, with rain expected quite high up. The plan is to try Ceillac, hoping snow will replace rain there! A reasonable possibility in this high valley!
Les Formes du Chaos in Ceillac
It’s pouring down in the valley this morning. I meet my two companions in Guillestre. Jacob is so confident that he hasn’t even put on his climbing clothes! We drive up to Ceillac: you have to go and look; sometimes you get a surprise! Anyway, I believe in it!
Persistence pays off: when we arrive in Ceillac, it’s barely raining, and the precipitation is even tending towards something rather more solid. Naturally, there’s nobody around! Bingo!
Building on yesterday’s experience, I suggest a more ambitious icefall to give Cédric and Jacob something to work on. Les Formes du Chaos is one of the region’s classics, and having it entirely to ourselves on a Saturday is quite a luxury!
The connections have formed in their brains overnight. My two apprentices are starting to get the hang of it, even if the steeper steps give their arms a workout! To avoid tempting the weather too much, I climb the main section in three long 60-metre pitches… No hanging around!
Since everything is going smoothly and it’s snowing here, we take the time to climb the two optional pitches, which are also beautiful! We finish delighted to have slipped through a weather window that was far from certain. Plans are already made to meet again in the mountains next summer!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Fracastorus in the Freissinières sunshine
- With Cédric and Jacob, climb Fracastorus, an approachable icefall roughly 180 metres high. Jacob’s first ice climbing experience, with a more technical upper pitch for Cédric to practise on.
J2 — Les Formes du Chaos in an unexpected weather window
- Despite rain in the valley, we head to Ceillac, where the precipitation turns to snow. Climb the main section of Les Formes du Chaos in three long 60-metre pitches, followed by the two optional pitches, with the whole icefall to ourselves.
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