Ski Touring in the Haute-Ubaye: A Trip Report

I had barely put my bag down when I got back fromArmenia that I get to see the team from the Kyrgyzstan, almost the whole gang, ready for new adventures! No planes or faraway journeys this year, but a colorful destination that feels just like a trip: the Haute Ubaye, also known in our little circle as “Ubayistan.”

We don’t know it yet, but a dream week awaits us: nearly perfect weather, mostly powder snow, and two very comfortable base camps—first in Maljasset and then in Fouillouse—from which we’ll set out each day with light packs in search of the best runs.

Day 1 — Tête du Crachet from the Col de Vars

What was supposed to be a quick warm-up turned into a truly epic day of skiing. From the summit of Le Crachet, the conditions looked so good on the Crévoux side that we couldn’t resist taking a run down that huge valley. What a great choice—the powder had us grinning from ear to ear!

We then head back up to return via the classic Crachet valley, veering slightly off the trail. The feast continues all the way down. What a promising start!

Tonight, we're staying at the Auberge de la Cure in Maljasset, at the very end of Ubayistan.

Days 2 and 3 — Pointe Basse de Mary and the Pierre André Tower

For these two days starting from Maljasset, the itinerary is put together on the fly, based on inspiration and what we see along the way. Vincent, a trainee guide, is joining us for his training. He couldn’t have picked a worse time to come!

First up, Pointe Basse de Mary. Spotted through my binoculars, the west face had been beckoning me from Maljasset. The ascent follows some steep slopes and leads to a true summit. On the descent, the first hundred meters had been churned up by the wind. Further down, the powder was waiting for us: we let loose, and shouts of joy echoed through the mountains. It was over in a flash. A second run was approved unanimously… except for one vote. The second run was just as good and fast, and then we glided down toward the valley and the comforts of the inn.

The next day was the only day of bad weather all week. We set out for the Aiguille Pierre André area, where the rocky landmarks should help us find our way. After a somewhat grueling half-hour battling the wind and snow, we turned toward the Aiguille. Once we reached the pass next to the Aiguille, the sky began to clear.

This is where we had to decide: turn back or continue the crossing? The weather is looking promising, and everyone is in good shape. Let’s keep going! It paid off: visibility remained good, and so did the snow conditions, almost all the way down. Still, we had to navigate a hundred meters of crust to remind us that it’s the mountain that decides how we ski!

That evening, we moved to a new base camp and met up with our friend Odilon at his guesthouse, Les Granges, in Fouillouse.

Days 4–6 — A Feast of Trails in Fouillouse

The fun continues along the slopes in the area: first the Beaumes ravine, then the Adrechouns. Our on-site observations are reassuring and allow us to consider these routes, while taking the necessary precautions. The approaches are relatively steep and already pose a good challenge for most skiers. A few turns to get a feel for the terrain, and everyone quickly finds their footing!

We round out our days, in small groups, with a few other fun little runs—there are plenty of them in this area.

In the evening, all that's left to do is relax in a hot bath, then curl up by the stove while waiting for happy hour.

2026 was an excellent year for the team. We haven't even left yet, and we're already talking about our next projects!