Two days on Breithorn, Castor and Pollux with Maxime, Aurélien, Romain and Christian: familiar faces above 4,000 m, glacier heat and a cable car dash.
A year after our Meije traverse, Pierre and Paul are back, right on cue! For these three days together, we’re heading into the Selle valley, home to a few rarely visited gems.
Over the Col de la Lauze to the Selle hut
We approach via the La Grave cable car and the Col de la Lauze, saving ourselves the rather lengthy usual walk up without too much effort… The snow is a little odd higher up, but then we find good patches of firm snow that make life much easier.
Tonight, the hut is overflowing with mountaineers: there are five of us altogether, and our trio are the only ones staying for dinner. Thibaut prepares a meal with real care. Afterwards, all that’s left is to collapse in an empty dormitory… Long live the wild Oisans!!
Voie des Lézards on Pointe Thorant
To ease back into climbing, I suggest Voie des Lézards on Pointe Thorant to Pierre and Paul. From the very first moves, the rock is a delight: this multi-pitch route offers excellent granite! The difficulty builds gradually, reaching 5b. A special mention goes to the 50-metre corner, where beautifully sculpted holds seem to fall straight into your hands…
After spending part of the afternoon giving our bodies a rest, we get to know the three people sharing the hut with us tonight during a legendary “yogapéro” session: yoga followed by an aperitif. Alberto leads the yoga, while Tibo and Noémie take charge of the drinks. Plenty of laughter at 2,500 metres!!
And what better way to finish the day than Tibo’s polenta with diots, the local sausages, followed by a legendary “crambleliflette” for dessert, to fuel our discussion about fasting and moderation!
The Candau Pillar on the West Râteau
On our last day, the aim is to cross the West Râteau, preferably by a beautiful route. We settle on the Candau Pillar, which I haven’t climbed before but which has an excellent reputation…
Once the first two fairly unremarkable pitches are behind us, things really get going from the small notch. Superb rock, enjoyable climbing and plenty of exposure!
At the top of the main steep section, two passages graded 5b/c provide the day’s crux. Candau put this route up more than fifty years ago, climbing alone with a self-belay. Respect!
There’s still a good stretch of ridge before we join the normal route on the West Râteau. We arrive at the same time as the teams coming up from the cable car, happy to finish this beautiful alpine climb, with the added bonus of a fairly short descent thanks to the lift!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Selle hut
- Approach via the La Grave cable car and the Col de la Lauze, then descend to the Selle hut. A lovingly prepared dinner and an empty dormitory: long live the wild Oisans!
Day 2 — Voie des Lézards on Pointe Thorant
- Climbing on beautiful granite, with difficulties up to 5b and a 50-metre corner full of sculpted holds. Back to the hut for yoga, an aperitif and a “crambleliflette”, the perfect accompaniment to our discussion about moderation!
Day 3 — Candau Pillar on the West Râteau
- Superb rock, plenty of exposure and two passages graded 5b/c on the Candau Pillar, followed by a ridge leading to the normal route on the West Râteau. Return by cable car to give our legs a break.
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