With Tibo, I climb Toits Branlants, Dents de la Mer and Futurs Croulants: two days in the Calanques, with trad climbing, sea cliffs and a memorable sunset.
A little two-day trip to the Calanques with Tibo, aiming for two trad routes of the kind this place does so well. Our selection criterion? The name had to sound scary!
Naturally, we head for Toits Branlants — “Wobbly Roofs” — at Castelvieil on the first day, followed by Futurs Croulants — “Future Collapses” — on the Belvédère cliff on the second.
As a bonus, after Toits Branlants, we climb Dents de la Mer — “Jaws” — a superb modern route. I still wonder how Tibo trusted me enough to follow me up routes with such alarming names!
Toits Branlants is a lovely route with very little fixed protection: two pitons and a few threaded rock features in place when we climbed it. The harder sections generally protect well. And what a setting!
We went off route on the third pitch. We set up the third belay in the mushroom-shaped feature, in the shade. On pitch four, we therefore headed up a wide chimney that ended beneath a roof, then traversed back left through a slightly dirty section with few holds and awkward protection: 6a+, an unrewarding variation.
Afterwards, despite our advanced state of dehydration, we couldn’t resist a little visit to nearby Dents de la Mer.
Our second top-out onto the plateau, with the sun going down. And, to put it in the local accent: bloody hell, that was beautiful!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Toits Branlants and Dents de la Mer at Castelvieil
- With Tibo, we climb the trad route Toits Branlants, going off route on the third pitch. We continue with Dents de la Mer and reach the plateau again at sunset.
Day 2 — Futurs Croulants at the Belvédère
- Our second day takes us to Futurs Croulants on the Belvédère cliff, continuing our selection of routes with reassuring names!
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