With Fred and Alexis, from the west Râteau to the Bruyère ridges: a window before the snow, then sunny rock climbing to build mountaineering skills.
After the Chamonix episode, which ended on Blaitière’s northwest ridge, I decide to take a little break, get my nose out of the mountains and watch the children grow for 48 hours!
On Sunday evening, I meet Guillaume, Fred and Alexis at the Chancel hut. They’ve just climbed Roche Faurio with my guide friend Nico. The forecast for tomorrow isn’t particularly inviting, but there’s still a little hope to be found between the lines…
The west Râteau, just before the snow!
When we wake up, there’s a light drizzle and the mountains are hidden in cloud… But a quick glance reveals a few stars overhead. Things improve while we have breakfast, and we eventually head up under a clear sky.
Starting from Chancel lets us get onto the west Râteau much earlier than those arriving on the first cable car, and today that will prove a good move! We make steady progress to the final rock step. Fred and Alexis climb together as an independent rope team, while Guillaume is roped up with me.
At the foot of these final difficulties, Guillaume decides he’d rather stop there. We continue to the summit, where the view is starting to disappear into cloud, though it’s still far better than the forecast had led us to expect!
We just have time to downclimb back to the snow before the flakes start falling. Within minutes, the rock is covered in a thin layer of snow that would have made things much trickier. The weather window closes; it’s been perfectly timed for us!
A classroom with a view: the Bruyère ridges
For the final day, it’s just Alexis, Fred and me. The weather is glorious! We head for the Bruyère ridges in the Cerces.
Fred and Alexis already have plenty of sport climbing experience. The idea is to gain experience in placing protection, moving together with protection and climbing in mountaineering boots: a completely different exercise!
The Bruyère ridges offer all of that in an idyllic setting, above a lake bordered by fields of edelweiss, facing the Écrins… A classroom with a view!
Father and son take turns leading the rope team at a relaxed pace, while I offer a few tips alongside them on protection and route choices.
We’ve had worse days! See you next year for more adventures!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — West Râteau
- An early departure from the Chancel hut to make the most of the clear weather before the snow arrives. Fred and Alexis climb as an independent rope team, while Guillaume climbs with me to the foot of the final rock step. Reach the summit, then downclimb the rocky sections just before the first snowfall.
J2 — Bruyère ridges
- Traverse the Bruyère ridges with Fred and Alexis to practise placing protection, moving together with protection, route-finding and climbing in mountaineering boots. Father and son take turns leading the rope team with my guidance, with views towards the Écrins.
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