Four days on Monte Rosa with Chloé, Cyrille, Clarisse and Quentin: Castor, the Naso del Lyskamm and Margherita hut, learning to climb more independently.
After climbing Mont Blanc in four days last year, Chloé and Cyrille are back this year with Clarisse and Quentin. This year we’re heading to the slopes of Monte Rosa to climb a few peaks. It will also be an opportunity for Quentin and Cyril to take their first steps in independent snow climbing—the terrain is perfect for it!
Day 1: From Staffal to the Quintino Sella Hut
We start in Staffal with a steep ascent by cable car and chairlift up to the Bettaforca Pass. From there, a long approach hike begins to the Quintino Sella refuge at 3,600 meters… enough to keep us busy for a good part of the afternoon! I just have time for a nap before the guides’ aperitif—a local tradition not to be taken lightly!
Day 2: Climbing Castore and crevasse rescue drills
A leisurely start this morning. No stress—we’re sleeping here again!! Our goal for the day is Castor, a peak rising to 4,200 meters in elevation that’s reached via a beautiful snowy ridge. Just what we need to acclimate properly! The conditions are incredibly mild, and we linger up there for a good half hour. Before heading back down to the hut, we take some time to work out a crevasse rescue strategy—one we hope we’ll never have to use... At the refuge, we nearly caused a diplomatic incident when we dared to ask our Italian friends for a second helping of pasta...
Day 2: From Quintino Sella to Gnifetti via the Naso of the Lyskamm
After two nights at Quintino Sella, it’s time for us to set off. We set off toward the Naso of the Lyskamm, our mandatory route to reach the Gnifetti Hut. The key section of the day is a rocky stretch followed by a slope where the ice is almost at the surface. It’s varied terrain where everyone learns, and the altitude adds a bit of a challenge! A brisk wind accompanies us all the way to the summit at 4,200 meters. Just beyond the summit, we’re sheltered from the wind, and the sun bathes us in warmth!
I couldn’t help but take a peek as I climbed up this rocky ridge leading toward the eastern Lyskamm. I have to say, rock like this is pretty rare around here! I suggest to Quentin and Cyril that we do a round trip along this ridge—gotta keep the guys busy! Obviously, it’s no Verdon rock, but it’s a chance for the guys to learn how to belay on the move in relatively easy terrain... We emerge not far from the eastern summit of the Lyskamm on this impressive ridge at over 4,500 meters. Just long enough for a glove to fall on the wrong side, and we’re climbing back down what we’d just ascended, like true conquerors of the pointless.
We meet up with the girls at the summit, who have been patiently waiting for us for over two hours! All that’s left to do is head down—or almost down—to the Gnifetti Refuge, where we’re seriously dreading mealtime… Fortunately, the portions are more generous than the day before, and we can head off for a nap with peace of mind!
Day 4: From Gnifetti to the Marghuerita Hut
The final day of our trip to the land of the 4,000-meter peaks. We’re heading up toward the highest peaks of Monte Rosa. The weather when we wake up isn’t very promising: it’s drizzling. By the time we get geared up, the drizzle stops. The key challenge this Sunday is getting out of the hut with all our gear!
Throughout the climb, there were plenty of clouds and the cold was quite biting. Once we reached the base of the Zumstein, we turned toward Gnifetti Peak, where the Margherita Hut stands, far more excited by the idea of a nice hot cup of tea in the cozy hut than by a summit shrouded in zef.
We take shelter for three-quarters of an hour in the highest mountain hut in Europe. Meanwhile, the clouds part, and we enjoy a breathtaking view. On the way down, I suggest to the boys—who are still full of energy—that we take a short detour via Pointe Parrot while the girls begin their descent... We enjoyed this magnificent stretch of ridge all to ourselves, facing the Lyskamm, before beginning a rapid descent toward the Mantova hut, where we met up with Chloé and Clarisse. A wonderful trip came to an end with nearly perfect weather and the best companions!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Staffal and Quintino Sella hut
- Cable car and chairlift to the Colle Bettaforca, followed by the approach walk to the Quintino Sella hut at around 3,600 metres. Settle in, take a nap and discover a local institution: the guides’ aperitif!
Day 2 — Castor and crevasse rescue
- Climb Castor, at around 4,200 metres, along its beautiful snow ridge. An acclimatisation day rounded off with crevasse rescue and hauling practice. A second night at Quintino Sella, following delicate negotiations for more pasta.
Day 3 — Naso del Lyskamm and Gnifetti hut
- Cross the Naso del Lyskamm at around 4,200 metres, tackling a rocky section and a hard-snow slope. Quentin and Cyrille continue learning with an out-and-back on a rocky ridge towards the East Lyskamm, above 4,500 metres. Descend to the Gnifetti hut.
Day 4 — Margherita hut and Parrotspitze
- Climb to Punta Gnifetti and warm up in the Margherita hut. On the descent, take a detour to Parrotspitze with Quentin and Cyrille, then rejoin Chloé and Clarisse at the Mantova hut. Four days of vast glaciers, snow ridges and first steps towards independent mountaineering.
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