Two mountaineers walking towards the north face of La Meije

MountaineeringEcrins

La Meije North Face — Z Route and Ridge Traverse

Another outstanding route on La Meije! Seen from La Grave, the Z draws an unmistakable line through the north face: an invitation to weave our way through this immense wall rather than keep gazing up from a café terrace! First climbed in 1933 by Maurice Fourastier and Casimir Rodier, it remains a major alpine adventure, with snow, ice and rock all playing their part.

I invite you to climb this historic route with me, then reach the Grand Pic and continue the journey along the famous ridge traverse. A north face and a little ridge adventure at nearly 4,000 metres.

Day 1 — Approach to the Promontoire hut

From La Bérarde, we walk up the Étançons valley to the Promontoire hut at 3,092 metres. A long approach beneath La Meije’s south face, with plenty of time to appreciate the scale of the mountain! Prepare our equipment and rest before setting off during the night.

Day 2 — Z route, Grand Pic and ridge traverse

We cross the Brèche de la Meije to reach the glacier and the foot of the north face. Gullies, snow slopes and mixed passages lead us through the Z to the Brèche du Glacier Carré. We continue to the Grand Pic at 3,982 metres via the Cheval Rouge and Chapeau du Capucin.
At the summit, a second adventure begins: abseils to the Brèche Zsigmondy, a traverse of the ridge towers and the climb over the Doigt de Dieu. We descend onto the Glacier du Tabuchet to the Aigle hut. Depending on our timing and chosen arrangements, we continue to the valley or spend a second night in a hut.

OPTION Day 3 — Return to the valley, if staying at the Aigle hut

After a night at the Aigle hut, we descend via the Glacier du Tabuchet, the Amieux ledge and the footpath. A chance to enjoy the mountains a little longer and spread the effort before returning to that café terrace!