Three days ski touring to Mont Thabor with the crew: changeable weather, a long-awaited summit and powder descents through a stunning rocky setting.
In April 2016, a dream team — François, Lolo and Tom — got in touch with me for a three-day ski tour in the Cerces. The weather was apocalyptic. Rain high in the mountains, sirocco winds, gusts of 80 km/h... Despite all my efforts to cancel the trip, I eventually gave in to the unshakeable motivation of the three companions. And so, in truly spectacular fashion, began the great tradition of the group's annual winter ski tour. Over the years, other adventurers joined in the wake of these pioneers, and together we explored the Queyras, Terre Rouge, the Dent Parrachée...
This year, we're coming back to a project that's been sitting on the shelf since the very beginning: Mont Thabor! We've planned it several times before, only for the weather to decide otherwise. This year, the weather window still looks pretty uncertain, but we decide to give it a go!
Day 1: From Valfréjus to the Mont Thabor hut
We start our ski tour from the Valfréjus ski resort, which allows us to gain some altitude without working too hard — always appreciated on the first day! We emerge at the top of the lifts into fantastically terrible visibility. We immediately take refuge in the nearest restaurant to wait things out... an effective waiting strategy, certainly, but one that proves entirely useless when it comes to changing the weather outside...
Eventually, we set off down the piste in single file. Luckily, a little lower down, the clouds begin to break and we grab the opportunity for a few powder turns before putting on the skins.
A beautiful climb takes us up towards the Thabor hut. The bodies slowly get moving again. Some muscles are rediscovering that they actually have a purpose! Before reaching the hut, François and Lolo are keen for a little pre-dinner run.
Day 2: First objective, Mont Thabor
We have quite a day ahead of us today — an almost legendary objective for the group. The route to Mont Thabor isn't exactly direct: first, we have to cross an initial ridge before starting the long climb up towards the chapel. It's not exactly a walk in the park, but it's not far off! Let's just say we have plenty of time to admire the scenery!
The last few hundred metres are tough and the legs are starting to feel it... A hundred metres below the summit, doubt begins to creep in for some members of the group, who are ready to turn around... We wait for Raph, who's having a hard time making up his mind. He's gasping for breath, but leaves us in no doubt: he's going to the Thabor. His determination pulls the rest of the group along with him!
We reach the summit, battered by a biting wind. The view is magnificent and everyone is pretty excited to have made it! We take shelter inside the freezing summit chapel just long enough to eat our lunch.
On the way up, I spotted an alternative descent that looks more sheltered from the wind. The snow on our ascent route, transformed and battered by the wind, isn't exactly inviting. I'm hoping we'll find some soft powder... because if we have to struggle on the way down as well, morale might take a serious hit!
We set off down the slopes I'd spotted earlier. And the powder is exactly what we were hoping for! Yeehaw! Unfortunately, we have to put up with the sight of two tracks left by JB, a guide friend of mine, and his client...
I'd planned to rejoin our ascent route further down, but as we pass above a small, inviting couloir, I can't resist having a closer look. A quick glance over the edge to make sure it isn't too steep or too loaded with snow... “Looks good — let's go, it's magnificent!”
And it really is. We ski right between the cliffs, down a couloir that's not too steep and wide enough to feel comfortable... amazing!
At the bottom of the couloir, all we have to do is let the skis run down the valley until we reach the inevitable point where we'll have to put the skins back on.
And there it is — the legendary Mont Thabor is finally in the bag. The whole crew can now relax, satisfied with a job well done! Everyone? Not quite. An indomitable François is still keen for a little extra... so the two of us head off to explore the ridges near the hut and squeeze in a few more powder turns.
After that, it's time for a well-deserved rest and aperitif!
Day 3: Completing the loop
Last day. Strong winds are forecast higher up, so we won't be heading too high. I'm hoping to find some good skiing in a valley below the Grand Bagna. And if the snow isn't great, at least it'll take us in the right direction for the journey back.
The weather keeps changing, alternating between clear spells and periods in the clouds.
Time for a quick motivation check at the bottom of the valley: everyone's fired up and the snow looks great! We climb another 300–400 metres until the slopes start to steepen.
Then we wait patiently for a break in the clouds before starting our descent. Patience pays off, and as the clouds lift, we set off down this beautiful untouched valley — it was just waiting for our skis!
Skins back on for a short climb, followed by another pause during the descent to let the clouds move on. Then some more great skiing before we reach the flat valley that leads us back towards the resort.
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1: from Valfréjus to the refuge du Mont Thabor
- We take the lifts out of Valfréjus in spectacularly poor visibility! A break in the clouds gives us a few powder turns before we put our skins on and climb to the refuge du Mont Thabor. François and Lolo even squeeze in an extra ski run before drinks.
Day 2: Mont Thabor, at last!
- After several attempts to plan this trip were thwarted by the weather, we finally reach Mont Thabor. The long climb puts everyone’s legs to the test, but the whole crew makes it! After sheltering from the wind in the chapel, we find a lovely powder descent, including a couloir between the cliffs that is well worth the detour. We climb back to the hut, then the unstoppable François joins me for a few extra turns.
Day 3: powder below Grand Bagna and back to Valfréjus
- With strong winds forecast higher up, we keep to lower terrain. We climb roughly 300 to 400 vertical metres up a valley below Grand Bagna, then wait for a bright spell to enjoy the powder. A short climb with skins back on, a few pauses for the clouds to clear and some lovely turns take us back towards Valfréjus.
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