After glacier practice, we swap the Dôme des Écrins for Roche Faurio: a sunrise, an airy summit ridge and the pleasure of leaving the crowds behind.
Sometimes it pays to change your plans in the mountains…
J1 — Glacier skills and a change of plan
The original plan with Carole, François, Caroline and the fourth member of the group was to climb the Dôme des Écrins after a glacier skills session. It’s a busy weekend. At least 130 people are expected to head for the Dôme tomorrow.
I’m not keen on the idea of that many people passing beneath the seracs. Come to think of it, I’m not keen on crowds at all! I explain my reservations to the group and everyone agrees to look for an alternative. Thanks for trusting me!
J2 — Roche Faurio at sunrise
So we point our crampons towards Roche Faurio. Barely a dozen people attempt the summit that day. We get going early and pass the other rope teams on our way down.
The sunrise on the way up is one I won’t forget. Watching the ant trail heading up the Dôme, we have no regrets about our choice.
Nobody but me was expecting a little stretch of airy ridge that day. No bouts of delirium on the final section. Everyone seems nicely balanced!
Thanks to all four of you for trusting me. You gave me the chance to enjoy this fine job of mine in peace, free of any obsession with ticking off a 4,000-metre summit!
François and Caroline, see you in August.
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Glacier skills and the decision to climb Roche Faurio
- After the glacier skills session, the group chooses Roche Faurio over the Dôme des Écrins, where many teams are expected beneath the seracs.
J2 — Sunrise and the summit ridge
- An early start for Roche Faurio, sunrise on the way up and an airy section on the final ridge. We pass the other rope teams on the descent.
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