Three days in the Écrins with Lionel, Christophe and Benoit: Pic du Glacier d’Arsine, quiet huts and an improvised couloir climb on Roche Émile Pic.
It feels so good to be around Glacier Blanc, all alone in a world of pristine white! And with dream weather, of course. We’d almost forgotten that such a thing existed!
Day 1: an evening at the refuge du Glacier Blanc
A lucky break for Lionel, Christophe and Benoit... We spend a cosy first evening at the refuge du Glacier Blanc with Nico and Vincent, two friendly lads from southern France who are more than happy to lighten their packs of the kilos of pastis and peanuts they’ve been carrying...
Day 2: Pic du Glacier d’Arsine and the refuge des Écrins
On our way to the refuge des Écrins, we climb Pic du Glacier d’Arsine, where I’d broken trail the previous weekend... So far, the gamble of leaving the snowshoes behind is paying off. We break through the crust now and then, but it works!
My mate Tom and Mélanie happen to be here too, and they lay on a four-star trail for us... Nico and Vincent also join us on this summit. All eight of us reach the top together. A sociable affair!
Getting to the refuge des Écrins is “almost” all downhill... Naturally, the hill of death — those 100 metres of ascent below the hut — makes quite an impression on the group in the blazing sun... Carbonara, beer and... a nap... that’s mountain life too!!
We abandon the idea of Dôme des Écrins, which featured in the original plan — the one you put together from the comfort of home — given the conditions... We need something shorter if we don’t want these lovely moments to turn into a miserable slog...
Roche Faurio, with a good trail already in place, is one option. Neige Cordier, with no trail, is another. We keep the suspense going until the last moment: we’ll decide when we wake up, depending on the overnight refreeze.
Day 3: an improvised couloir climb on Roche Émile Pic
4.30 am. We head towards col Émile Pic. There’s a bit of wading through snow, but nothing unreasonable.
As we climb towards the shoulder leading to the slope below col Émile Pic, a lovely couloir inevitably catches the eye. It heads straight towards Roche Émile Pic. Everyone is feeling strong, the conditions are good, so in we go...
The couloir is magnificent: 250 metres of sustained climbing at 40–45°, with a few short, steeper sections. We emerge at a sunny notch, from where some mixed climbing and a short ridge straight out of a Samivel illustration lead us to the summit... A lovely bit of improvisation!
Thanks to the three of you for trusting me!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 – Refuge du Glacier Blanc
- Walk up to the refuge du Glacier Blanc and enjoy a sociable evening with Nico and Vincent, sharing pastis and peanuts.
Day 2 – Pic du Glacier d’Arsine
- Climb Pic du Glacier d’Arsine, then descend towards the refuge des Écrins for carbonara, beer and a nap.
Day 3 – Roche Émile Pic
- An improvised ascent of Roche Émile Pic via a beautiful 250 m couloir at 40–45°, followed by mixed climbing and a short, airy ridge.
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