We spend three days learning the ropes in the Écrins, from Glacier Blanc to Pic d’Arsine and Roche Faurio, with summit naps and hut carbonara thrown in.
It’s a somewhat disorganized group—due to the SNCF strikes—that’s joining us for this short introductory mountaineering trip in the Écrins…
Day 1 — Ice climbing school and meet-up at the Glacier Blanc
Three people are missing from the terrace of the Glacier Blanc refuge. They’ll miss out on ice climbing school! Fortunately, everyone reunites over drinks. The group is complete: Anne, Julien, Miguel, Clotilde, Mickaël, François, Fanny, and two newcomers, Antoine and Lucile. The last trip with Antoine was on skis, a month and a half earlier…
Of course, all of this is far too much for a single guide to handle. So, for some emotional support, I’m turning to an expert in the field: Sylvain. Together, we’ll be able to handle those long naps at the summit and those endless aperitifs in the sun much better. It’s safer that way!
Day 2 — Pic d’Arsine and a test of the summit nap
First mountaineering expedition to Pic d’Arsine. Conditions are terrible, making it necessary to wear a full-body T-shirt. Our bodies are put to the test…
At the summit, the tension that built up during the climb is still palpable... especially for the guide.
We decided to put the team’s ability to pull together and stay focused to the test in real-world conditions during these tricky moments. The test was a success… The team pulled together and tackled this first key section as one.
At the summit, the tension that built up during the climb is still palpable… especially for the guide.
We decided to test the team’s ability to pull together and stay focused under real-world conditions during these tricky moments. The test was a success… The team pulled together and collectively tackled this first key section.
This day has convinced us to keep going. Even if we have to take it step by step, the team seems ready to tackle greater challenges. But before that, we’ll still have to endure the carbonara session at Les Écrins and those long hours of inactivity that will take us from one meal to the next… Once again, the rope team excels and proves to be very persistent in its relaxation.
Day 3 — Sunrise and the summit of Roche Faurio
Last day. Heading to Roche Faurio. We brief the team: “Be careful—today, with the nice weather and the sunrise, the risk of having too much fun is high. If you feel the fun getting a little out of hand, react quickly—immediately give your calf a sharp pinch to rein it in.”
The team held up well all the way to the summit… But just when everything was going smoothly, it was on this lovely rocky outcrop perched more than 3,700 m above sea level that everyone lost it: shouts of joy, moans of pleasure, sighs of contentment, aesthetic rapture… It’s total chaos—we’ve completely lost control!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Ice skills and a reunion at the hut
- The rail strikes scatter the group a little. Three people miss the ice skills session, but everyone makes it to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc in time for drinks.
J2 — Pic d’Arsine and a summit nap
- The first climb takes us up Pic d’Arsine, where the team passes its group nap test. The next challenge is carbonara at the Refuge des Écrins.
J3 — Roche Faurio at sunrise
- Sylvain and I head up Roche Faurio with the whole group. The sunrise sets the tone and, once we reach the summit, everyone cracks.
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