Three days learning mountaineering skills with four friends in the Écrins: rock, Glacier Blanc and Pointe Cézanne, tangled brains and good times together.
After a brief stop in the valley, I head back up to meet Julien, Julia, Lionel and Rémy at the Glacier Blanc hut for three days of mountaineering training in the Écrins. Thankfully, temperatures have risen since yesterday, and we’re going to enjoy lovely summer weather throughout the trip!
Day one: rock skills near the hut
Since these four friends all have some climbing experience, rather than slog through the wet afternoon snow, we practise rock skills near the hut. A chance to cover all sorts of things: different ways of roping up for different terrain, placing nuts and cams, building belays, and so on. The afternoon flies by as we tie and untie knots in our brains!
Day two: Glacier Blanc and Pointe Étienne
A lie-in. We let all the other rope teams leave bright and early; 7 am will do for us! Today’s lessons follow the sun: first, a morning outing on the glacier to practise crampon technique, then, in the afternoon, once the sun starts warming the face, we climb the Pointe Étienne by combining the Molinatti and PDB routes.
My companions organise themselves into two independent rope teams, while I move between them to check their protection, belays and route choices! It’s an excellent training route, giving everyone a feel for what managing a mountain climb independently really involves. The afternoon slips away, and we’re back at the hut just in time for an aperitif!
Day three: Pointe Cézanne and its snowy ridge
Last day, no lie-in! We wake at 4 am and head towards the Pointe Cézanne. We’ll have this mountain to ourselves today!
A complete change from yesterday: today’s theme is snow! First, in the south couloir, some steep crampon work and moving together with protection, made easier by the existing steps… One more short, steep slope, and the summit is ours, along with its utterly spectacular view!
The climb doesn’t end there: we still have to traverse this beautiful snow ridge and its many cornices to the foot of the Pic d’Arsine. Lower down, the snow starts to soften, we unrope, and off we go! A 300-metre slide brings us back to just above the glacier with barely any effort!
The course ends as it should: a proper session of basking on the hut terrace, with a tasty little feast facing the Pelvoux! Thanks to all four of you for three thoroughly entertaining days together!
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — Rock skills at the Glacier Blanc hut
- Practise rock skills near the hut: adapting rope systems to the terrain, placing nuts and cams, and building belays. A first day devoted to techniques that help develop independence in mountaineering.
J2 — Glacier Blanc and Pointe Étienne
- Practise crampon technique on the Glacier Blanc in the morning, then climb the Pointe Étienne by combining the Molinatti and PDB routes. Two independent rope teams climb under my supervision, working on protection, belays and route-finding. Return to the Glacier Blanc hut for the night.
J3 — Pointe Cézanne
- Wake at 4 am and climb the Pointe Cézanne via the south couloir, practising steep crampon work and moving together with protection. Traverse the snow ridge to the foot of the Pic d’Arsine, then descend towards the glacier and finish with a meal on the Glacier Blanc hut terrace.
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