Four days on Mont Blanc with a great team: the summit for some, the Dôme du Goûter with Pierre for me, and shared moments high above the clouds.
After a perfect first Mont Blanc ascent, with an almost miraculous weather window, I meet a new team at Tête Rousse without even going back down to the valley… Chloé, Cyrille, Pierre and Fred are with Charles, a fellow guide and friend.
Two nights at Tête Rousse to take our time
My companions have chosen a four-day trip to help with acclimatisation, often one of the keys to success up there… They start with two nights at Tête Rousse, with a short preparation day around the hut to fine-tune the technical details and get some crampon practice.
At the time, conditions on the mountain are excellent. The Goûter couloir is completely snow-covered and looks far more inviting than during a heatwave, when rockfall threatens the climbers crossing it! That day, its grim nickname, the “Death Couloir”, seems almost at odds with the scenery, although vigilance is still essential.
The weather keeps us guessing until the last minute… As guides, making a decision in such unsettled weather isn’t always straightforward. We wait for the final forecast after dinner before deciding when to get up: 1.30 am if we attempt the summit, or 7 am if we “just” head up to the Goûter hut. Quite a difference!
With our noses in our little smartphones, we try to read between the lines of the forecasts… They don’t all agree, but a window does seem to be emerging. We’ll give it a go: 1.30 am it is, so much for the lie-in!
After two days at Tête Rousse, Chloé, Cyrille, Fred and Pierre are getting restless, and the prospect of a summit attempt tomorrow has them motivated!
A break in the clouds near the Col du Goûter
1.30 am: I peer through the dormitory window with one eye half-open… The hut is in cloud, but I briefly catch sight of a few stars. Promising!
We make good time through the Goûter couloir… We stop for a few minutes on the old hut’s terrace to eat and drink. A cool breeze is blowing, and the clouds are still with us for now… We skip a stop at the Goûter hut and start climbing towards the Col du Goûter. On the way, we meet two teams who set off from the Goûter this morning and are turning back: too cold, too windy… Brrr, not exactly encouraging!
Before reaching the Col du Goûter, we cross a distinctly hostile stretch: a headwind and no visibility… The summit looks far from certain! But today, the mountain doesn’t necessarily belong to the earliest risers! Near the Col du Goûter, the clouds begin to break up and the summit clears. The sunshine warms us instantly and the wind suddenly drops. Yes, we’ll take that!
Two summits, the same pleasure in being here
Pierre is feeling the strain. He joined the project at the last minute without much preparation — though with a naturally robust constitution! Altitude is unforgiving… The two of us head towards the Dôme du Goûter while Charles continues towards Mont Blanc’s summit with Cyrille, Chloé and Fred.
The spectacle is truly fantastic today. Great banks of cloud spill over the Col du Midi from Italy. Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit are wrapped in cotton wool, but Mont Blanc stands clear against the sky, and the Bosses ridge is completely free of cloud!
Rather than heading straight down to the hut with Pierre, we make the most of our time up here. We chat as we walk to the summit of the Dôme du Goûter, far more than a consolation prize in today’s magical atmosphere… The disappointment soon fades, and Pierre savours the moment. Was the summit really just an excuse to be here, to take in these wonders the mountains offer us?
Chloé, Cyrille and Fred reach Mont Blanc’s summit today! We all meet again at the Goûter hut for part of the afternoon and the night, before descending towards greenery and civilisation!
A little selection of photos taken by our bearded photographer: very classy!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Ascent to Tête Rousse
- Chloé, Cyrille, Pierre and Fred head up to the Tête Rousse hut with Charles. They have chosen a four-day Mont Blanc ascent to allow more time for acclimatisation.
Day 2 — Preparation around the hut
- A day around Tête Rousse gives the team time to practise crampon technique and fine-tune the technical details. I join them at the hut. After checking the final weather forecasts, we decide on a 1.30 am wake-up for a summit attempt.
Day 3 — Mont Blanc or the Dôme du Goûter, according to how everyone feels
- After a start in cloud and wind, a clearing welcomes us near the Col du Goûter. Charles continues to Mont Blanc with Chloé, Cyrille and Fred. Pierre and I enjoy the Dôme du Goûter and the spectacle above the clouds. The whole team reunites for the night at the Goûter hut.
Day 4 — Return to the valley
- After the night at the Goûter hut, we descend towards greenery and civilisation, with two different summits and plenty of shared memories.
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