Four days learning mountaineering in the Écrins, from ice practice to sunrise on the Dôme, with Pic du Glacier Blanc, Roche Faurio and a few naps too.
Four lovely days of climbs and afternoons spent recovering. What a way to live! In this heatwave, we’re glad to head into the Écrins for a little cooler air.
Day 1 — Snow-free rock and glacier ice practice
We spend the first day of the beginner mountaineering course practising on ice and rock. We manage to dodge the soaking the thunderstorms bring to the range late in the day.
Day 2 — Pic du Glacier Blanc and the Écrins hut
A gruelling alpine wake-up at seven! We set out for Pic du Glacier Blanc, with a small detour into the heart of the glacier to build on what we’ve learned about moving on ice. At this time of year, the normal route up Pic du Glacier Blanc is an easy rock outing. Sure-footedness is what counts most here, and my three lads manage pretty well!
If we weren’t worried about getting sunburnt, we’d all be climbing shirtless. Hardly normal at 3,500 metres in late August! We reach the Écrins hut early in the afternoon. A tough schedule lies ahead: a snack and a compulsory beer for everyone, followed by an extra-long nap.
Day 3 — Roche Faurio
No lie-in this time. For Roche Faurio, an earlier start gives us better snow for the climb and the descent. The heat of the last few days has weakened some of the snow bridges. My three chamois take the day’s challenges in their stride! We enjoy being in the mountains on such a beautiful day, then endure another tough afternoon watching the rain through the hut window.
Day 4 — Sunrise on Dôme des Écrins
That big white hump has been taunting us for long enough. Time we took our crampons up there. Well acclimatised after the last few days, we keep up a good pace to the Dôme and watch the sun rise from up there. How good is that?
Practical Info / Route Topo
J1 — École de glace et de rocher
- On travaille les bases sur les deux terrains avant l’orage de fin de journée.
J2 — Pic du Glacier Blanc
- Petit détour par le glacier pour poursuivre l’apprentissage, puis ascension rocheuse du pic du Glacier Blanc et nuit au refuge des Écrins.
J3 — Roche Faurio
- Départ matinal pour profiter des conditions de neige et rejoindre le sommet par l’arête rocheuse.
J4 — Dôme des Écrins
- On profite de l’acclimatation des jours précédents pour monter au Dôme et y voir le soleil se lever.
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