Three days on the Dôme des Écrins with Cyril, Anthony and Sébastien: glacier skills, Pic d’Arsine and shared moments on a guided mountaineering trip.
No sooner had I come down from Pic d'Arsine with Vince and Jérémie than I ran into Cyril, Anthony, and Sébastien... Accustomed to hiking in the Southern Alps and elsewhere, they wanted to see what it was like a little higher up. We’re planning to go to the Dôme des Ecrins, and we’re setting aside three days for it… a plan that lets us gradually gain altitude and enjoy the mountains without having to rush the whole time!
Day 1: Ice and Snow School
A traditional ice climbing lesson to keep us busy on the first afternoon. In addition to learning, it’s a special time when we can explore rugged areas of the glacier off the beaten path at our leisure… just like the day before, we enjoyed the most beautiful terrace in the area on our way back, under a radiant sun!
Day 2: Pic du Glacier d'Arsine and relaxing in the Ecrins
5 a.m. A lie-in. A warm-up day at Pic d’Arsine. Gently preparing body and mind, getting in tune with the mountain while enjoying a first beautiful summit. The conditions at the start of the season are perfect. Plenty of snow and, finally, good refreezing over the past few days...
We spend a long time up there enjoying the 360° view. It's really nice not to have to rush off as soon as we get there!
The descent to and ascent from the Ecrins refuge will be almost a formality...
A moment of hop bliss across from La Barre.
Today’s dramatic event: perhaps to test his guide’s unwavering dedication, Anthony dropped one of his shoes in the charming couloir below the refuge—which also serves as a conduit for all manner of human waste... I eventually found the shoe, which, after bouncing along, ended up 100 meters down the slope, practically on the glacier!
Day 3: Dôme de Neige des Ecrins—the climb and... the descent!
3 a.m. It's the big day for Anthony, Sébastien, and Cyril. None of them really slept well. Between the altitude and the excitement of the unknown, restless nights are often part of the mountain experience!
We set out in the first rope teams along the gentle slope that leads up to the base of the Dome. With our minds still foggy and our headlamps off, we slip stealthily beneath a canopy of stars. The magic of the morning!
At the first light of day, we tackle the first steep slopes of the Dôme. The route is uncompromising—straight up the steep face! We maintain a good pace in this area prone to serac falls… unfortunately, on the Dôme des Ecrins, there are few places where you can really let your guard down. A short break after the slope. Daybreak arrives, and the Barre bursts into the rosy light!
The crevasses on the Dome—some of which are quite impressive and sometimes even impassable—are almost all filled in for now, even allowing for a direct passage through the upper serac field. A short 3-meter stretch of ice adds some excitement to the climb and will give the rope team—which is still finding its footing—a bit of a challenge!
3,800 meters—this is no time to slack off, even if we’re out of breath, even if our legs are begging for a break! The two rope teams ahead of us have turned off toward the Barre des Ecrins. The Dôme lies ahead of us, completely deserted! Just a little more effort, and the dream will come true!
It feels so good to be standing on the summit of your wallpaper, as Anthony would say!! A light breeze reminds us that we're in the mountains, but we still enjoy the summit for a good half hour...
After descending the steep slopes of the Dôme—which are starting to soften up a bit—my companions are about to discover what it’s like to be led down by a guide in “sled dog” mode!!
Thank you all three of you for your good spirits, your curiosity, and the great conversations up there! See you soon for more peaks!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Day 1 — Ice and snow skills
- Cyril, Anthony, Sébastien and I begin with an ice and snow skills session to prepare for the Dôme des Écrins. We explore the glacier as part of the learning, then enjoy some time on the terrace.
Day 2 — Pic du Glacier d’Arsine and the Refuge des Écrins
- A warm-up day on the Pic du Glacier d’Arsine leaves plenty of time to enjoy the summit and its 360-degree view. We then head to the Refuge des Écrins for some relaxation, a beer and an eventful recovery of Anthony’s dropped boot!
Day 3 — Climbing the Dôme des Écrins
- A 3 a.m. start takes us up the glacier and onto the Dôme’s sustained slopes. A short ice section adds some spice before we reach a summit all to ourselves. After a good half-hour on top, we descend the slopes and continue with the guide in sled-dog mode!
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