From the Cosmiques hut to Monte Rosa, weather calls the shots: Lachenal, the Cosmiques ridge and a summit attempt from Mantova cut short by a close storm.
The unusual weather of summer 2014 keeps us constantly adapting. Not just to the forecast, but to conditions on the mountain too!
When I meet my two companions in Chamonix, the plan is to attempt Mont Blanc via the Aiguilles Grises after two days of acclimatisation together. A beautiful alternative to the normal Goûter route, though a longer one.
The amount of recent snowfall concerns me. There has been no clear weather since the last fall, so the new snow has had little opportunity to settle!
Days 1 and 2 — Acclimatisation at the Cosmiques hut
While we consider our options, we head to the Cosmiques hut to acclimatise. The lads are full of enthusiasm and have already spent three days in mountain huts, acclimatising and getting to know each other.
Unlike the weather, morale could not be better!
Rather than remain glued to the hut like mussels to a rock, I suggest a climb each day so that they can explore different, slightly more technical terrain.
We complete the Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Cosmiques ridge, enjoying some peace on both by choosing less conventional starting times.
We refine our acclimatisation with a strict diet of cheesy croûte and draught beer, supported by intensive sessions of extended napping.
Day 3 — A change of massif and the Mantova hut
After these two days, the decision is clear: attempting Mont Blanc via Gonella involves too much risk. The weather window does not look particularly good either.
The forecasts are better around Monte Rosa. Off to Gressoney!
Much of the ascent to the Città di Mantova hut is by cable car. Quite a change from the Oisans! There are still 200 vertical metres to climb under our own steam, mind you…
We see that here too, sunshine and exceptional July snowfall have produced numerous avalanches. Some of the old hands tell us they have never seen anything like it in forty years. A chilling thought…
Day 4 — The storm blocks our way
To set off and return early, and enjoy some peace, we opt for an early start. We are the first team to head towards Monte Rosa.
After an hour’s walking, thunder begins rumbling behind us. An interesting interpretation of fine weather from the forecasters this year…
The storm still seems distant, and we continue. I would at least like to reach the Balmenhorn bivouac shelter to take cover and wait for a window.
But the interval between lightning and thunder keeps shrinking. In other words, the storm is right on our heels!
A flash strikes roughly a kilometre ahead of us. We turn around without waiting to reach the shelter.
During the retreat, one of my companions takes an unplanned look beneath the glacier’s surface, fortunately without injury…
Every team that set off behind us also returns to the hut. Curtain down: we call it a day.
My two companions accept this “failure” with smiles and good humour. A fine attitude, lads! We will try again next year!
Practical Info / Route Topo
Days 1 and 2 — The Cosmiques area
- Two acclimatisation days, including the Pointes Lachenal traverse and the Cosmiques ridge; their order is not specified in the report.
Day 3 — Città di Mantova hut
- Abandoning the Mont Blanc plan via the Aiguilles Grises, transferring to Gressoney and ascending to the Mantova hut.
Day 4 — Monte Rosa attempt
- An early start, followed by a retreat as a thunderstorm approaches, before reaching the Balmenhorn shelter.
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