Anne's Pillar at Olan

After two full days of trekking around and on Les Bans, we head toward Valgaudemar, another truly wild corner of the Écrins. The local star here is the Olan, which inevitably catches the mountaineer’s eye from the valley…

Staying true to our tradition at the start of the week, we’re continuing our tour of the nearly deserted mountain huts. Tonight, we’re sharing the Olan hut with two other climbers. Murielle, the assistant hut warden, is pampering us: the food is just like home! There’s something special about the wild Oisans.

The Anne Pillar: A Project That Makes You Think

I suggest to Alain that we climb Olan via the Anne Pillar, then traverse the three peaks, and descend via the Escarra route. That’s enough to give my climbing partner something to think about—he’s torn between doubt and excitement! In any case, nothing is set in stone: we can always switch to the normal route if necessary.

In the end, the decision will be made right at the obstacle: we’re heading for the Anne Pillar! Alain and I know each other well, and I know what resources I can count on.

After a climb up a snowfield without crampons—which allowed me to connect with my ancestors, the guides who carved the steps—we tackled the first two pitches of “Oiseau de passage,” which lead to the Anne Pillar. These were the two key pitches of the day.

A fellow guide who had been at the shelter the night before—a very strong climber—tried to reassure Alain by saying, “Oh, don’t worry, it’s V–V sup at most! ” A level Alain is far from used to… Fortunately, that wasn’t the case: it didn’t go beyond IV sup, and that’s already quite a challenge in heavy boots, in the morning shade!

From the Anne Pillar to the Three Peaks of Olan

Right from the first belay, we’re out in the sun. Southeast-facing walls have their perks! After climbing the first two pitches, Alain feels more confident, and we’re off, moving quickly with the rope taut, toward the Anne Pillar.

The rest of the way to the south shoulder will go by pretty quickly! Behind us, the clouds are forming a ballet, setting the stage for a beautiful view at the summit.

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Next up is the trek to the north summit, the highest point: a real roller-coaster ride! And here we are at the summit for a nice, long, well-deserved break.

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A descent you have to earn

There’s no obvious way out of Olan. Even the standard route is a challenge! But there’s no rush: we’ve made good progress, and besides, we’re spending the night at the shelter again. So we’re taking in the day’s “nebbia” atmosphere…

A few descents later, we’ve made it to the glacier. There’s solid snow all the way to the shelter—now all we have to do is slide down to the terrace!